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Looks like the ECU was the problem all along. No more stalls!

I have now replaced the ECU. I am interested in the HEI conversion, but for now I just ordered a replacement box (the blue one) from Summit Racing. The car seems to run better than it has for a long time now, but then again it ran fine before except for the more than occasional failures...

I've got a very high quality multimeter, with a very low quality operator... I'm excellent at checking voltage, other than changing the dial to ohms, where do I measure the grounded resistance from?

Lots of good advice here. It may be a while before I get an opportunity to dig deep into this to find the solution. In the meantime I am driving the car, no stalls this morning... I did replace the original distributer for the Mopar electronic, I did this when I 1st bought the car 8 years ago...

The fuel is new, and the issue has persisted across multiple tanks purchased from different locations. The issue does not present itself when cold, it happens after warm up when the engine is running smoothly. The engine speed doesn't slow or stumble, it just shuts off. I wonder about the fuel...

'71 Chrysler 300. Generally runs great, however I'm having common intermittent stalling. No sputtering, the engine just stops. This started happening after I changed the carb to an AVS2 with electric choke. Not sure if the electric load of the choke is enough to cause ignition issues? I wired...

Just ordered a NOS switch from Murray Park. It looks like an alternative would be to buy a switch for a GM column and rewire the connector.

Did you ever find the correct one? I'm in the process of trying to find a replacement switch and curious how you were able to resolve this.

Hey, I'm going through this same struggle now. Question, once you unbolt the switch from the column does the switch just pull off of the actuator rod? I'm afraid to attempt this too vigorously.

I replaced my battery, alternator, and voltage regulator about 2 years ago. That was a bit of an ordeal because I got I think 4 different alternators from NAPA until one of them worked (bad bearings, no output, etc). Fast forward to today and I'm back having charging issues. Battery won't...

Probably not your issue, but the silliest reason my car would die when I stopped... the spade terminal was not fully connected to the ballast resistor but was just sitting on top of it touching. When I started it and drove everything was fine, when I stepped on the brake momentum made the wire...

I suspect we're talking about the wiring inside the column for the ignition switch?

Use these guys Evans Wiring Harnesses

I fried my engine wiring harness when I pinched a wire under a new set of valve covers I put on my car. I was very pleased with the new harness I got from them. It fit perfectly.

Is it possible to put the wires I currently have feeding the switch into a new plastic piece? Rebuild the replacement connector with the existing wiring instead of splicing a pigtail? (I would totally still have them send a 2' pigtail though, that just seems like a smart idea)

In my case the problem is the plastic connector to the headlight switch. It was very melty long before I got the car. It almost works good? Any good ideas on where to find one?

John, I'm having issues with my headlights which I believe are associated with the headlight switch getting hot. It looks like you made all new wiring for your headlights including new connectors. Would it be a problem just to add the relays inline to my existing headlight wiring so the...