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How's your coil? Old/bad ones don't like heat and will behave as you've described.

Is this regarding the '68 300 in your avatar? If so I think later models had more fuse terminals, I could be wrong though. Seperate universal fuse block? Did the car run with the wires like that? Typically you want to keep red and black away from eachother, I'm no expert though. I'm not sure...

I'm no expert, but I would think yes. I was mostly responding to the "what I could be missing" part of your question, as it wasn't listed in your diagnosis.

Horn relay, beside or around fuse box.

Usually new caps have the remnants from machining which looks the same as your picture shows. I clean them up with a small blade. I would guess that didn't happen and as a result, the smaller pieces of brass fell off during operation, and appeared to be "dust".

There it is! Thank you very much. That's alot of horn options. The speed switch has me even more intrigued. I really want to know what it sounds like! This is all I "turned up" with a quick google search, how the times have changed. Honk if you … well, maybe not - Chrysler Capital

Was this an actual Chrysler option? I've never heard of it before. Excellent write up by the way!

It's a simple gauge you connect to the spark plug hole to check compression, and to a degree, leakdown. The one's with the hose as mentioned above, are the best type. I have a real oldie with a rubber tip you just push and hold against the hole. It's kind of ridiculous, but better than nothing I...

Have you ever done a cylinder compression test? I'd want to know why they became so fouled. That's a sign of something not being quite right.

Other than being oil fouled, those "old" plugs look pretty good! Were they all like that?

Cigarette lighter on the back of buddy?

I wasn't thinking a short, and I'm probably overthinking it, however the coil to distributor wire has alot of electricity running through it, and while the insulation is shielding and suppressing it, there is almost certainly a field around it. I can't see it effecting the ballast resistor, but...

I would move the coil. The high voltage main wire is really close, possibly touching? The two low voltage components right beside it.

Typically the barrel will have a couple of tabs that catch on the sheet metal hole it slides into. One or two "messing withs" may break them, depending on usage.

I can see it doing that, I just can't see how a typical guy could do it safely, at home. Maybe we'll see a YouTube video of someone trying! The pulsating/desulfurtoring charger looks to be a great tool to buy.

200 amps? That doesn't sound too safe. 2 amps on a trickle charger for a couple of days is what I've been told by people who work with battery's for a living.

Spade clip? Also the new one doesn't have the latch, if it's being inserted into a plastic shield.

Or you could ditch all that neato mechanical stuff and convert it with the newer mustang electronics. I know, I know, you shouldn't ever put ford parts in a Mopar. I think this is an excusable exception. If you can't get the original working, or find parts.

Like Matt, I've used the original pertronix with great results, and can't recall exactly but, the two's can work, with extra work? And the three's are pretty much out of the question for a street car.

As C barge pointed out, there is an original one for sale on this site. For Sale - 70 fury dash harness That is one of the most hacked harnesses I've ever seen. Not worth the trouble of fixing.