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It's good there are other options out there.

I not sure when they changed hands, it was fleet pride when I moved back from Kokomo. They seemed good to me at the time but that was 5 years ago and it is a relatively simple job. I though of buying a press, the money wasn't as much an issue as the floor space it would occupy. If you have the...

Five years ago I had one done at Fleet Pride, (old Universal Joint Sales), $45 remove old, press on new seal & bearing. I had to supply the parts, $80 @ NAPA.

Was/is the car power brakes? I know there is a difference between power and manual pedal assemblies from the factory, the pivot points differ for greater leverage in the manual version. How this effects an aftermarket conversion I'm not sure. Your in the right place though, allot of members on...

When I bought mine in 2014 it had Michelins with what looked like near new tread. They drove fine but once I looked at the inside sidewalls they were cracks all over. At the tire place getting new ones I asked if they could tell me how old they were but there wasn't a date code, according to the...

Two years seems a bit excessive. I will say though 46 years was way over the line, (as it was with my 68 when I first got it), stuff was like a brown mud. I would just keep an eye on the condition, color ect. If/when you bleed go the extra and make sure you pump all old out of the lines.

Look for cracks on the side walls. I think what you're doing is fine. If belts start to sperate you'll feel that right away. Just my two cents.

I have never done this so for what it's worth, I would go with the aftermarket conversion. Although the out of pocket cost would be higher. Even with a doner car with all the components you need, they're still 50+ years old and would need to cleaned and rebuilt to be reliable. Good luck!

In what you wrote, you didn't mention the rubber hoses, to each caliper and the one to the rear axle. If they are old they can inhibit fluid return. Another thing is make sure all the brake lines are clear, blow them out with air or keep pumping fluid through until it runs clear. Just some...

Definitely missing the self adjuster hardware. If it's fairly original don't stop with the hoses, look at lines, wheel cylinders, master and flush all the fluid. I learned the hard way about picking at it. Go from the pedal back and make it right.

If you're replacing everything, cut the lines at the dist. block, take it off and give it a good cleaning.

It is correct that the pedal assemblies were different between manual and power, there were different pivot points to provide more leverage for the non power and the power pedal is lower toward the firewall requiring less travel. That said though, when I looked doing the conversion to mine, as...

When I got my car it was a survivor and I wanted to keep it that way. It had manual drums and I ended up changing almost everything from the pedal on down, (the car had around 30k on it in the 40 years the previous owner had it, so allot of sitting was involved). If I had it to do again, I'd do...

If you're doing the disc swap I'd say just go ahead. You could be chasing this for awhile. Besides what you mentioned about the hoses, the drums could have been turned beyond the limits not allowing full contact, one or more wheel cylinder pistons could be stuck, possibly even the master, (I...

Good advice above, at least the engine is out. My knuckles are bleeding just thinking about it. Good Luck!

I was going say the master but that's been covered. I replaced all my wheel cylinders eventually, combination of NAPA and summit, can't say where they were made, new or reman, but had no problems. Also, FSM's list the order of bleeding as right rear, left rear, right front then left front...

I'd add use the lug nut upside down to prevent damaging the taper.

I'll throw this out there, as it happened with me, but never heard of it before. I re-did my system too, pedal on down, (didn't add power though). Replaced the master with a rebuild from NAPA. After a bit, had the same issue you described on the rear wheels, tuned out the piston in the master...

In looking at doing this, but never did, on mine, I'm about 90% it will all bolt up. There must be many people who have done this on the site, both with OEM and aftermarket set ups to offer up guidance. The other post is correct as the pivot points are different in manual vs. power brakes. In...

You have enough suggestions, all good. I'll add look at the tee and lines going to the rear for clogs and the distribution block under the master for the same thing.