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Yes, no need to change cables. Factory may have used a different cable but the 2bbl cable works fine. If somebodies got one and willing to sell it, that's the way to go. IIRC, the 2bbl kickdown is too short, I think once we spliced in a short section? It didn't look as nice as a factory...

'69 started the fuselage era with the one piece kickdown linkage, no way it'll work on a slab side. IIRC, a bit of cutting and welding on my brothers '68 got it fitted up. Not as pretty as a factory 4 bbl piece, but it worked. Throttle cable and linkage can be adapted, don't recall sourcing...

VIP = Very Important Plymouth. A trim package option that ran from '66 to '69 to try to compete with Chevy and Ford's new models, Caprice and LTD. As I recall sales weren't very good, kinda rare to see vs. numerous Caprice and LTD's (Lum Tee Dums) :poke: Wife had a '71...

Nope, the very first one I ever worked on was my Grandfathers '72 Grand Coupe. The stalk was broken, I went down to the used part emporium and procured a nice one for him. Then I test drove it around Fort Worth, I really liked that car. If you watch the video I posted, it's from 1972 and...

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FOUND IT! On mymopar.com https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/298.pdf

You can test the diaphragm for leaks, no problem. After that, I'm lost. When you go to install it, the only adjustments are for the brake light switch and the accelerator cable (lost motion link). Any Chrysler service manual will have it in there. Don't mess with the adjustment screws on the...

I generally use the ACC fuse position. Tying into the back of fuse block is neatest, make sure you get the output (fused) side, fuse tap, acceptable, not great, or stuffing stripped bare wire under the fuse, nope.

On my '68 I tied it into a switched power lead on the back of the fuse box. Where I put it on the '69 eludes me, completely blank. I_think_the sliding switch started in 1974 with the formal models. It wasn't too long after that the sliding switch superseded the rotary switch. The switch for...

Well, I guess I could be wrong...the link on the left is the only one I recall seeing...

Sure, a lot of them here: To cruise, or not to cruise I think they're all alike, never seen one different, two barrel, four barrel, different years all seem to be the same.

It's VERY easy, don't even worry about 1968, that's for the numbers matching purists, just install that stuff in your car. Short of running into one of us at a show, NO ONE is going to realize it's not year correct. The brake light switch will replace yours directly, it has two extra terminals...

Dave, isn't there some problem with the later disk booster and column shift on the older cars? I seem to recall something about that.

I checked it out after you mentioned it. I doubt the servo actually works, mebbe it can be repaired? I have no idea. The '71 cruise will fit and work. The '68 servo is specific to 1968, TS switch and brake switch are specific to 1968 and 1969. The '69 servo is specific to 1969. After that...

Me neither! :lol:

Might as well snag the cruise control, cables and steering column while you're there.

I checked it out here and found he's correct: 1969 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Rotor | RockAuto

You need to spend some time reading over here: Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion The pinned post in the Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires forum. 1973 is the preferred year due to rotor availability. The brakes on my completely stock '69 work beautifully. I have the '73 spindles and...

You can easily go to 29" diameter (P235/75R15) with standard offset wheels and not rub a thing. If you can find 15" hubcaps you like that's the way to go today. Remember disc brakes w/ 15" wheels were an option for your car. IIRC, 8.55x15 was the size tire. H78X15 or J78X15 would be roughly...

I really like the way you're routed the exhaust. Got any pictures from below?