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Interesting. I've had zero problems with the car since that one day and have driven it quite a bit.

I didn't check my dome light, but aside from that I got nothing. No power at all. It was as if the car had no battery in it. Had to drive to another location and after several hours, it started fine.

They’re not corroded at all

Ok so the “Radio” fuse-bottom right on my fuse block was blown. Replaced it. Everything worked. Drove it to meet a friend. Parked the car. Get back in after an hour, try to start it. Absolutely nothing. Turn the key, nothing. I open the door and decided to try and turn the key. Starts right...

Great. Thanks a ton for that. It'll definitely help, especially as the parking garage looks like a dungeon inside.

Thanks for checking John. I plan on pulling the fuse when I get out of work and checking it. Hopefully that's the issue. Another hour to go....

I had my radio converted by Gary Tayman, so it was plugged into the AUX jack on the radio. It was playing when I turned the car on. I have no idea if that specifically caused it, but figured it might have been a possibility. It's also been raining here the last 2 days. First time I've driven...

Ugh. Dave, would it be the dash harness that is potentially the issue?

So I think I blew a fuse this AM. I started my car (70 Sport Fury) with my radio on and the iPod running and I heard a slight click. After that my fuel and temp gauges stopped working, and I don't think my turn signals work either. Everything worked up until that point. Because I'm going to...

They're total crap. Put a reproduction switch purchased at MoparMall.com in my 70. The canceling rod on the steering wheel kept hitting the cam, even when the switch wasn't on. Then, the turn signal just burned up under the steering wheel. My electrical guy couldn't find anything in my car...

They couldn’t find anything. They think it was the switch itself. Reproduction garbage.

Looks like B-bodies use the same part. And if you ever had to pull your dash apart more than once in a short span of time, you'd gladly go back and pay the extra for the OEM part the first time and be done with it. NOS Mopar 1971-74 B-Body Head Light Switch | eBay

Oh, source a NOS switch. After the crap I’ve gone through with aftermarket crap, you definitely don’t want to pull apart your dash again if you don’t have to. Totally worth finding a new Mopar part. Just use the FPM to find the part number and go from there.

Any thoughts on a daily driver in AZ? The heat is especially hard on batteries here, hence why I'm thinking of an Optima. However, I obviously like the originality of the Restoration Battery. Group 27 Original Equipment Deluxe Battery (#2932852 Late) - Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth - Restoration...

Taking the car back to the electrician today. Wish me luck. Mainly that I don't blow a gasket when discussing the work they should have already done properly on the car so I wouldn't be going through this, and that it really doesn't take more than 15 minutes to change out the switch so I...

The failure is at the switch itself, I believe. It started smoking when I had the right turn signal on. As I was trying to merge right and was having a difficult time getting over due to traffic, the right signal was on for a fair amount of time.

Interesting discussion guys. Thanks.

Nice. And I'm sure they work better than the one I just bought. I figured it's better to have something than nothing.

Thanks for the tip. I will relay it to the electrical shop who should have diagnosed this the first time around. Can I charge them for the $35 for 1-day shipping on the switch or the switch itself? Grrrr....:BangHead:

I like how almost no stores near me have a reasonable extinguisher in stock. I had to order one from Target. Some days I feel like, despite all this apparent great technology, life just becomes more and more of a pain in the ***. Ridiculous.