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More firm.

It was right around $225.

If you decide you need a box rebuild, don't buy a reconditioned one from RockAuto or any of those parts houses. I went through 2 before i took my original box to Benchworks Steering. They did a great job. They can also make it so it has a tighter feel to it if you want. Pretty quick...

They sell the rubber piece separately. It’s all in the parts manual. I have them all written down at work I think 69 and 70 are the same. As these are used on all cars (or most)it’s not hard to find parts.

I’m not sure what your question is. MOPAR used a coupler. There’s a few NOS units online, but they’re not cheap.

Yeah top.

Well it’s also leaking from the front seal so there’s a problem

At this point Dave, I think I'm best just taking in my original to the car box and have it rebuilt. They're local, they guarantee their work, will only take 2-3 days, and at that point I will most likely have a quality unit. And it's not too bad in price. I wish I had just done this to begin...

OK, so I found a local steering box rebuilder who will rebuild my original box for only $219. They pressure test everything afterwards to make sure flow is correct. I'm heavily leaning towards doing this today. 2-3 day turnaround. I'll pull the POS currently in the car over the weekend and...

OK, so I got up early and went out and adjusted the PSI Valve a bit more. As my driveway sucks (it's like a 20 degree incline), I didn't jack it up. I just pushed the valve forward some more. At the moment, it seems like it's close to all the way forward, but not totally. I started the car...

They were. I'll lift it back up for readjustment.

OK, so just took the SF for a quick drive. When turning the wheel left, the car starts pulling that way fairly strong. If I turn the wheel to the right, the wheel slightly automatically starts going that way. The wheel is still not turning totally smoothly. As the manifolds were way too hot...

I got it guys. It’s what Bob first said and then Dave reiterated. ThenPSI valve was way too far forward. I simply loosened the bolts pushed it towards my firewall and voila. No wheel turn. Thanks again guys. This forum is the best!

Well loosened bolts. Turned on car. Wheel went all the way to the left. I tried tapping on it forward or backwards and nothing seemed to happen. Not sure how hard I’m supposed to tap on it but used a plastic hammer so as not to damage the valve body.

Ok, so to reiterate, I’m loosening the bolts that attach the silver piece to the metering block to which the return hose connects. I loosen then just enough so there’s no fluid pouring out of there (I assume some will be leaking out, however?) Then, I turn on the car. At this point I assume my...

Ok, so will fluid be leaking out of valve block or am I barely loosening the bolts? Also when I’m tapping on it, is the engine running? And am I tapping it side to side or towards the firewall then towards the front of the car?

Couple questions: 1) Is the PSI valve the silver piece that the return line connect to or the piece that the pressure line connects? 2) I assume this is all done with the car not running.

OK, so I went ahead and replaced my power steering box again, because I was having some issues with pressure. This was due to the fact that one of the cheap plastic plugs they uses for shipping got jammed in one of the fluid holes and was most certainly blocking the flow of fluid. So, after...

I think this is probably true for most or all of their parts. I like the rebuild idea. A good rebuilder will make it look and function like it did when new.

Thanks guys.