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Did you say a store tested it and showed the alternator wasn't outputting, but the Vreg was the problem? For others, leave it in the car since best way to test it. Gazillions of posts in the A-body forum, esp by 67Dart273 who is ever patient w/ gomers. You can easily apply "full field" w/...

Thanks. Very useful. $23 was an amazing price, but none left. Search "switch 3502126" in ebay turns up many for $75-80, which is still a good price. I recall when Paddock sold them for $99 in the early 1990's. You are correct that many later van parts interchange w/ our 1960's Mopars. I...

For others, search "MAD Bypass" on the A-body forum. Many, many posts about bypassing the ammeter. For those with a 1965 car, no worries w/ the bulkhead plastic melting because your car has thick buss-bar feed-thrus for the ALT and BAT wires, instead of thru the 56 terminals (spade connectors)...

Never seen a toggle switch. Would be good to describe your car. The pull-switches look pretty standard, at least my 1964 & 65 A & C bodies are the same, and might continue thru the 1970's. Maybe $15 at rockauto and such. On 1960's cars, one trick is to run a jumper so the "parking lights" are...

Keep a spare ballast resistor in the car, and also jumper cables to hot-wire the ignition if the switch fails. That will get you home. I had to use those when I drove my 1964 Valiant home after purchase. I found the key-switch had gomer'ed wiring that had fallen off. At first I jumpered 12 V...

I wouldn't buy the linked systems. They are just the Mopar 1970's ignition, with all its disadvantages (old electronics, needs ballast, clumsy wiring). Pertronix is easiest and uses your distributor assuming the shaft is still tight. Get Ignitor II or III since the original still needs a...

Thanks for posting and links. Since it still requires a ballast, or a "ballasted coil", it is based on older electronics (aka 1980's). The GM 8-pin HEI module (1985-95 V-8) has dwell control to eliminate the ballast, so can use a better e-core coil. The A-body forum has much info and one...

Yes, "56 terminal" or "Packard 56", used on Mopar/GM. Packard was an electrical company (not the car). The "spade" connectors on home appliances are similar and can interchange. You might refer to the slightly extended female ones as "excited", but they will work fine. Fill the cavities w/...

I don't think any controls are shared between headlights and turn bulbs, so unlikely on the high-side unless you have frayed wires touching (or bulkhead terminals). I agree, that often such cross-talk is in the ground circuit. I doubt you will find ground points detailed on the wiring schematic.

Later Mopars w/ column shift have a 3-pin "neutral safety switch" which screws into the side of the transmission near the shift input. The outer 2 pins connect in R to turn on the backup lamps, the middle pin shorts to gnd in P or N. I thought my column-shift 65 Newport has the 3-pin NSS, but...

The "voltage limiter" should really be termed "voltage regulator". It will always have 3 terminals. It is inside the fuel gage in my 64 & 65 A-bodies and I think in my 65 Newport. It changed to a rectangular plug-in box on the back of the cluster by 1969. Cars w/ the tachometer (rally) dash...

You can't judge by measuring coil+ with the engine not running. If you still have a points distributor, you would measure 12 V if the points happened to be open and 3 V might be reasonable if the points are closed. BTW, I read you can damage the points (or even the later electronic box) if you...

Great result. I repaired the clock in my 1965 Newport around 1993. I used a quartz conversion kit from J.C. Whitney catalog. I still have the original innards. It appeared to work by a "solenoid kicker". When the contacts came together (>10 min interval?), it would actuate a solenoid that...

No downside, as long as the condenser is working and not shorting internally to ground. It is just a capacitor. It is more important to have if you still have a ballast resistor since it provides a "surge tank" after the ballast. The original Pertronix Ignitor still requires a ballast. The...

I don't think you want to connect it to coil- since that would counter the on/off switching your "ignition" system is doing, and perhaps weaken your spark. I think it should be on coil+. As mentioned, the purpose of the condenser (capacitor) is to smooth the spikes put on the 12 V supply from...

The old style Vreg used "high-side switching". It simply outputs full 12 V or nothing to the single alternator "field" terminal. The other field terminal is grounded to the case. The electro-mechanical one in the photo just switches on and off. The newer electronic replacement probably...

Too late for you, but for others. Simplest to do some simple diagnostics in the car. That round-back type is usually a "1-field wire" type, with one brush grounded to the case. Measure the voltage difference between the 2 brushes (i.e. field terminal to other brush screw). If not close to 12...

I prefer the "mini-starter" from Magnum engines (V-6 or V-8), since 1/2 size & weight and less current draw. Fits all Mopar V-8 and slant from 1960 to ~2001. Also in Jeep Grand Cherokees, if those made it to Israel. You can buy new or rebuilt (forgot) for $45 on ebay from an LA place, though...

All standard problems. You need a wiring diagram. They are simple to read, compared to those in newer cars. I'll hit a few that rang a bell: Instrument Vreg. In early cars (bad boy, you didn't tell us your car), the Vreg is built into the fuel gage, at least I think true, since A-bodies...

Interesting. My 65 Newport is auto tranny, column shift and the backup lamps switch is on the NSS (3-wire type), at least that is what I recall and the tranny was out in 2001. My 65 Dart is floor shift and has the NSS on the shifter. Indeed, that is the first time I recall seeing a 1-wire...