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I have a set of the 15” wheel covers and I am fairly close to you. The same wheel covers were used on pickups and B Body’s.

That is very possible as is the factory having leftover center caps from the 1974 production run of cars.

Yes. Those center caps, while not easy to find are easier to find than the splined center caps.

1974 was the last year for the splined end cap center. They probably used a carryover photo of the wheel in the brochure or used the 1974 center cap because the new style wasn't ready yet when the brochure was printed.

If the pushrod lengths are the same with adjustable pushrod set where it is at, you should be fine as the pedal range of motion will be the same.

Can you compare the pushrod length to the old booster’s pushrod?

I’m pretty certain that your 1968 300 uses 11 x 3 inch front drums as do New Yorker’s whereas Newport’s, Fury’s and Polaris had 11 x 2.75 inch front drum’s. My guess is that someone in the past looked up the part number wrong or assumed that all C Bodies used the 11 x 2.75 inch front drums.

My thoughts are that both of those tire sizes are to short. My recall is that the factory equipment tire was around 27.5” tall and if you look up the diameter of those tires you will see the difference. You need to look up the recommended wheel width for the tires you select as an 8” wide wheel...

It is not uncommon to have to back of the brake adjusters to get the drum off. Good job removing the rust etc.

Sometimes on styled wheels shops try to balance with only weights on the rear for a better appearance and to ensure that the trim ring fits correctly. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't and weights on the front of the wheel are needed. If it still vibrates, have them check to make sure...

Drive with it on and see if the problem is cured. Did they use a spin balancing machine or a bubble balance type?

A manual drum brake car will have the brake pedal sitting higher. The conversion bracket pushes the brake rod to the booster out beyond the fire wall, which is why your brake pedal is in the power brake pedal height. You should be okay using the brake pedal to booster rod from the donor car...

It looks like your car may have been converted from manual drum brakes to power drum brakes since I see what appears to be the bracket used for that conversion, which was used because the manual drum brake setup used a longer rod to the brake pedal. At least that is what was done on the 1967 &...

Yes, you will need everything including the spindles and the brake line junction box as well as the brake booster and master cylinder.

No.

Not sure if this helps but here’s a pic of the left front brake assembly off my ‘68 Sport Fury for reference.

The bracket is good quality & cad plated. There is a bearing spacer, at least one non-C Body bearing & seal as I recall and I have those parts for the older Scarebird conversion.

I have an older Scarebird disc brake conversion on my ‘68 Sport Fury that uses 1970 - 1973 calipers and 1973 rotors. I have a couple of these kits as well as new, old replacement rotors (non-Chinese junk) that I would sell. The kit uses a bracket that is a direct bolt on to your drum brake...

If you are positive that your front drums are 11 x 2.5, check to see if that size is available for a '65 Satellite as it may be a common B Body size brake size.

I am willing to ship.