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I have to ask why a Group 27? The size? CCA? Or?

Time for another battery. Costco’s book only goes back to the 90’s. What would be a good one to get from there? 1968 Chrysler 383 automatic just regular street driving. (If anyone asks why there, I’m a business member (so I get money back), good return policy and no complaints on previous...

Okay, I did get a “fart back” through the carb before I rotated it 180 so maybe I’m on the right way again! It’s dark (it’s in the driveway, so I’ll wait till tomorrow and had to hook up the trickle charger as the battery was wearing down). It’s not a Cardone, it’s an Autoline points...

Okay, so I painted my engine so when I took the old distributor out I did not mark it. I thought I had the new distributor in the correct way but it would not start. I turned it 180 degrees (never done this before - do you just pull the distributor and turn the shaft 180 degrees then...

Sorry, I did not get a notice to this thread and I looked in the book and could not find the same page I am SURE was in there ... I looked a few times because I'm redoing my passenger window - turns out the "premium oem" replacement kit that included a new metal gear had the gear teeth sheered...

I think he means you will have to get under the car and find the numbers stamped on the transmission case.

I hadn’t done this yet, until today. Feel a bit better having done it. That said, I still haven’t tried starting it yet - I have the battery disconnected still as I found 4 new bulbs under the dash day before yesterday (the 2 for the ashtray and the 2 between them for the fan buttons(?))...

Thought I’d give you a thank you for this.

It’s done, though. That must make you feel good.

Good find on the build sheet! How did the window repair go?

In the mean time check out this thread: Removing/changing power window motor and this one: Removing Rear Window Motor 1970 Chrysler

I don't think you're going to get the motor out without the regulator, so you don't have to clamp it until you are about to remove the motor. Unless in your Step 2.5 it is remove both regulator and motor from vehicle and Step 0.5 or 1.5 is to undo the window from the regulator (that's what I've...

The nuts did not work well in mine. They were just too harsh and it seemed there was a bit too much play in them (yes, I used the size (1/4 - 20) as per the original post) and they ended up cracking my gear housing they sit in. I ended up ordering some delrin bushings off ebay as well as...

It’s still soaking (or back to soaking).

Yes, it is a bit daunting. Especially when you find out most of the people working in auto parts stores don’t seem to know much beyond reading a computer screen and even online articles can contradict each other and forums can be worse.

I looked at it. I did not know for sure if the 4 extra mm would make them unusable. The chart also has absolutely no explanation of the advantages and disadvantages of each individual designation. But hey, it’s always good to assume.

I made a mistake. They are NOT RJ14YC, they are: Champion RF14Y4 Spark Plugs

Thank you. It’s not a high points restoration. I want plugs that will run good and perform well. I just wanted to know if the R would affect anything. I’m going to guess they’re soft-core as they’re modern wires.

The FSM states J14Y for the 2 bbl 383. I’ve got a line on a guy who has both RJ14YC and J14Y plugs. Which should I get and why? He wants a bit more for the J14y than the resistance plugs.

I have a '68 Newport with a 383 2 barrel and was wondering which type of Champion spark plug I should be looking at. The RJ14YC vs the J14Y? The 'R', I know, means "resistance", but I'm not exactly sure how what might affect things. Any advice would be welcome.