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I had the same problem and thought my master cylinder was no good (I bled and bled and bled them!). Turns out I needed to adjust them better ... Give that another try.

Unused original parts are probably the best, but I ordered mine from RockAuto and they've been fine so far (wheel brake cylinders). (not sure the brand off the top of my head - they have a number) RockAuto Wheel Cylinders

Finally got to adjust the adjusters yesterday (it's been raining, cold and windy). Thank you. It did the trick.

You just reminded me that I need a new block heater cord! Come visit in January/February and see -40 weather and you’ll appreciate those assumptions.

Thank you, all! I will try these tomorrow.

What is the proper adjustment for the self-adjusters? I’ve read 9 “turns” but is that 9 turns of 360 degrees (full turns)? Or? But if you do not have new brakes, just replaced the adjusters, then how do you know they are in the proper position?

The Mancini stainless ones might be something I’ll look into in the future. Sadly, with fall here I’ll have to park the car for winter here in Canada. It really would be nice to have Arizona, New Mexico weather ...

Grabbed some of the copper nickel line. That stuff is very soft - so easier to work with. Had some trouble lining up the line to the T junction block on the differential (probably from lying on my back and connecting the wheel first). Changed out the wheel cylinder. Looks like it was time...

Cost summary Description Price Subtotal $171.00 Shipping $104.00 Taxes $30.25 Total USD $305.25 Yeah, I don't think so ...

Took the old one off and I was worried about how frozen it would be at the T junction. Picturing that breaking too ... Put the wrench on and it just turned ever so easy. Why couldn't the nut at the wheel have done the same thing?! (Yeah, I know, it's all the crud, corruption and communism...

Mancini Racing also sells sets for $155 (or stainless for $179) Mancini Racing Power Drum Brake Line Set, 7pc

So it’s 3/16” brake line that is on the car? (the service manual does not specify) A local shop has the flaring tool used in the video for about $22usd and the bender for about $14. Being in Canada, shipping is never that fast and prices for shipping are often outrageous.

This video is pretty straight forward and my daughter wants to give it a try tomorrow.

While trying to bleed my rear drum brakes, the driver's side bleed valve sheered off at the brake cylinder. While frustrating, that was okay, because I have a new wheel cylinder. In trying to loosen the brake line off the wheel cylinder, though, that line sheered off ... Despite Deep Creep...

That’s a handy technique to know!

I did just grind some off the bushing. Works fine and is a lot better than the ones that were on there. (Which were completely shot.)

It didn't... The cotter pin broke. So, I had to drive into the city and buy some more (got extras). Then the wife texts and says to get some milk. Texts a little while later and says to get root beer. But it got done.

It does not have left handed threads. Those are all my thoughts too. (If I wasn’t questioning it, I would not have posted the question.). It’s good to get others’ ideas and confirmation. The only reason I noticed is the right hand lug bolts have the ‘R’ on them.

Okay, so I took my brake drums off, wire wheeled them and painted them (black, so if I put on the 5 Spokes, it will just be black in behind). Putting them back on I realized I put them on the opposite sides they were originally. Is this going to be a problem? (My daughter suggested, "Well...

Yeah, I had a heck of time with mine too ... Compressing them wasn't the worst problem. The fact one did not fit was ultra frustrating and required a lot of grinding while in the car as I could not get it out (I'm sure I could have, but after the work of getting them in, I wasn't about to try...