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Same, but from Fleet Farm. I used the yellow caps group 24 mid range battery. Red were reserved for the group 27. In ‘68 in NA (Canadian cars seemed to size up) 318’s got the green group 24. 383’s got the yellow middle group 24. And 440’s got the red group 27. The other caveat if I recall...

Put a regular charger on your battery. Sometimes with a bad cell, the charger won’t even work. Or it will charge up and show good voltage, but a few hours later it will drop. Or once you have it charged turn on your lights and see how fast the voltage drops (ignition off) Or just take it to a...

You will likely want to follow the procedure in the service manual. There is a little hole that you need to insert a small rod or drill bit (can’t remember the size). This will hold the switch mechanism in the proper place. Then you slide the switch until it touches the reverse switch pin and...

I finally gave up chasing a perfect sending unit. My gauges were on spec but my original sending unit wiper was worn out. The replacement sending unit would not go above 3/4 and I didn’t trust empty. So @Big_John s suggestion I got a meterMatch and calibrated my gauge and sending unit...

If you read the fine print, I believe the RTE gauge is built to simulate the points style regulators. I don’t remember if it is this voltage regulator or the meter match that also replicates the slow gauge “warm up”.

And the age old debate/screaming match begins. Real starter vs mini starter. It has been at least 6 months since we have addressed this subject.:mad:

The fusible link is more than a smaller gauge wire. It is a “slow burn” fuse. With a little heat or overload, it won’t blow, but with a consistent over load it will. It seems some relays are sold with fusible links. One would think that there would be something similar available in UK.

Wire Length is about 6-1/2” to 7” ( tape measure shows from the bulkhead (not including connectors to the end of the harness connector

I have a ‘68 Polara (non A/C) which I rebuilt the harness back to Factory spec. Should be very close to the’67 Fury. Also a 383 engine which shouldn’t make a difference in this case. I do have one modification which includes power to my headlight relays I installed for brighter lights and...

I have re-wired a few things and have the tools to prove it. (Missing my coax cutter and crimper).

I just did an Amazon search but mine didn’t come up. These look similar and seem to be cheaper. Mine were around $30. Not sure of the quality. Twidec/Wire Crimping Pliers 2.8/4.8/6.3 mm Spade 26-16AMG Crimping Tools Manual Crimp Fold Tool for Open Barrel Terminals SN-48B https://a.co/d/iBpZCNy

A little late to the party. But along time ago @commando1 put a link to these on a thread. I don’t have the link anymore but here they are. The brand I got is: Pro’s kit CP-336F. They have w double step to crimp the wire and the insulation for 10-20 gauge wire and terminals.

I went with the regular power outputs, but put in a dual channel retro sound speaker to replace the single in the dash and two decent 9” speakers in the rear. He will also do pre amp connections, if you really want to blow the doors off. Sound isn’t as good as my Bose sound in my pickup, but it...

The wall alignment works pretty well if you have the distance and a flat space. The white garage doors at work may or may not have some marks at strategic positions. I also found a Hoppy headlight aiming kit on E-bay about 2 years ago. With shipping they ranged from $75 -$150. Great kit and...

I used the putco harness and relay on mine. I removed the yellow and wrapped it like original with the vinyl nonstick tape and installed original style connectors. Hid the relays around the corner of the core support and used halogen bulbs. You will have to really trace my harness back to tell...

I tried to find an Aurora kit (Same that Tayman uses) to do it myself, but Aurora only sells to their authorized installers. A couple of years ago there was a thread where somebody on this forum with electrical and radio knowledge did their own conversion with random parts off of Amazon. At...

Converted radio by Tayman. Not cheap. Internal gear drive for volume and tuning. Plastic gears are stripped on this one. Tuner drive

I had my original converted to AM/ FM Bluetooth. All the controls work and you can still use the mechanical presets. The issue with modern radios are the dials are no longer mechanical, but electrical. The thumb wheels drive a gear that drives a volume pot and the tuner drives a belt. I have...

Black is not necessarily ground on pre '70's Chryslers LOL..... (your second part of the statement could be plausible if coming directly from the battery.) The heavy black wire on fender going to starter is power to activate the solenoid, and then you have the black power wire feeding one side...

It isn’t a main power supply and it is not within a loom or harness. My guess is that someone added an “accessory” at some point and then removed it. Doesn’t look factory. What accessories don’t work?