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I think this thread goes through the process. A the kit I bought. ‘68 Polara Alignment by the book

I bought the QuickTrick alignment kit about 5 years ago. I have used it a few times. They are on gen4 now and around $350. I think mine is gen 1 or 2, and maybe $250 at the time. I did buy an additional digital angle gauge off Amazon so I wouldn’t have to change from side to side...

If you freshly rebuilt with new bushings and seals keep going up to the factory ride height. What you don’t know is who adjusted it prior to you to maybe try to lower the front and raise the rear. Even the factory setting is not that high. I found that when I rebuilt my’68 Polara I set it to...

Nothing that a little over greasing or blown out ball joint seals over the years. Plus with the wheels on its a little difficult to get straight on the grease zero. Half of what you pump sits there collecting dirt and road grime.

I have a 3/8 and the mid range 1/2” 14v cordless from Rigid as I already have a lot of battery packs. I actually use the 3/8 more than the 1/2. But the feature I like on both is once the nut is broken loose it slows down a little so the nut doesn’t come flying off. You can also adjust the torque...

After backing off make sure you don’t have the one-way spring washers on a couple of the studs. New they had them to hold the drum in-place until the tires were installed and if the brakes had been properly replaced in the past they were likely re-installed.

Sometimes when you have the fork in with tension on the joint, screw the nut on a couple of turns and whack the stud. It will sometimes give way. Or an air chisel with a blunt end may help rattle it loose.

It’s amazing how much a little oven heat expands the bearings so they are easier to press on. A couple hundred degrees will go a long ways with a cool axle shaft. Don’t go to extremes.

And here I always thought that the worn and compressed rubber squished up there after 50 years. I could only find round ones as well

I would expect that if your torsion bar adjuster is all the way out (meaning no more tension on the adjusting cam) and per your pictures, the bumper isn’t sitting on the stop, removing the bumper won’t really matter. If you need to back off the adjuster more and it is resting on the stop, it...

Things you find on the internet are not always true, trust but verify. :lol: That being said some of the adjustment tips depend on the condition of your adjustment bolts. If the threads are clean and not corroded and the bolts free, you are not going to hurt them adjusting with weight. You...

I believe even the service manual has the statement that after initial greasing of new ball joints to break them off

Yes the ‘68s have very light steering. 1/2 of the steering issues can relate to worn out suspension bushings as a little free play goes a long way in wandering steering. Also a tight idler arm and steering link is important. Get rid of any slop from the pitman arm to your tires first. Then go...

TF 727 "How To" shift lever seal replacement Sticky posted in the transmission forum. Tool works great v

For Sh!ts and giggles have you unplugged and capped your cruise control vacuum to make sure that system isn’t causing issues? Not allowing full vacuum to the booster? As as said above blow through your check valve to make sure it is working.

Since it is under the axle, it actually lowers the rear end a touch but points the pinion up. I added it when I was getting driveline vibration. In this case it tilts the pinion up a hair for better overall driveline angle. It is likely overkill as my issue was a bent/unbalanced drive shaft...

‘68 Dodge Polara 3” inside spacing 5-1/2” from lowest radius to bottom of threads. Stock springs with 1/4” wedge to perfect my driveline angle.

Not an expert, but I tried to convert the Mopar alignment in simple terms. Yes there are a couple of areas where the discussion got a little deep, but the read should give you a starting place on alignment procedures. This was on my '68 Polara, some of the specs may be a little different, but...

I put KYB gas adjust on the front a couple of weeks ago. I replaced my “Roadsensing” shocks which were not that old, but one was starting to seep. What a difference I think the old ones were too weak. I wouldn’t get more than one bounce, but the whole front end would wallow over a bump. Way...

I still run my original sleeves. And they spent miles busting down minimum maintenance gravel roads. If the threads and clamps are still good, you will be in fine shape.