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I got my Ultrasonic cleaner Friday. In my excitement to use it I didn’t take many pictures. I am still figuring out the best solution. I started out with pinesol and Mr.clean and cleaned our wedding rings first. That worked great. Then I went on to big greasy motorcycle parts like my exhaust...

My thoughts are that if I am going to plate it or paint it or clear coat it I would run through the ultrasonic (theory at this point). Then buff or blast it depending on the desired finish. It’s not very effective to try to blast through caked on grease. I as well dislike the flash rust. They...

So I have been reading up on ultrasonic and aluminum ( and have run across info on vinyl record cleaning as well). Most of the internet/HF cleaners are 40kHz. They are fairly aggressive creating larger cavitation bubbles which is great for cleaning steel and heavily soiled surfaces. However for...

If you keep the game tank covered it will last for years. I think I had mine in there for about 15 + years. Mine evaporated down enough that I needed to clean out and add new. My new solvent has a less aggressive smell than the first stuff. People say it’s about the same as odorless mineral...

Quick shot of my plating system 2.5 gallon Left to right. Heated de greaser, in stainless stock pot and hot plate about 170 degrees, muriatic acid, Caswell Copy Cad(with aquarium heater, (about 100 degrees)And rinse for each step. I did buy a water distiller as I needed about 12 gallons of...

I have used many parts cleaning/ restoration methods over the years. I seem to spend a lot of time cleaning parts and trying to make them new again. I also dabble in cad / zinc replating (another time suck for a different thread). I have always used solvent for internal engine and transmission...

Post 13 was what they used to have in the PDF’s. I only needed 10 for the’68 Polara.

Pretty much like factory. Unless you knew to look for them you probably couldn’t tell the difference. Especially not from the top. With the bottom up perspective you can see a little dome. It seems the pure flat one do not exist in 1/2” anymore (with the stainless caps).

Look like bushings for the sway bar hangers. But 4 doesn’t make sense.

Serial number plate rivets for 68? Found it. It seems the ECS link in there doesn’t work. But Byron Fettig. (I think a search under Dakota Connection can find him). He’s at many Midwest Mopar shows. He has buckets of clips screws. And every thing else. And he knows where everything goes...

Search some of my old threads. I can’t remember if it was in my restore back on thread (link in my signature)or if I did a specific wanted thread. I believe I got them from someone here. I will look as well

The Slabs had about 3 different shades of colors for the interior. In 68 they are listed in the back of the service manual. For my car (red interior). I have Aztec Maroon metallic suede, rebel red metallic and then a couple different vinyl colors that complement the paint.

You may have to adjust height a couple of times as your new bushings settle in. I set it initially and then after a couple hundred miles, needed to adjust again. Haven’t touched it since. But check every spring anyway. (Is easy on a 4 post lift)

Looking good. For big parts I have used the jumbo ziplock bags. Gently put the part in fill the bag, remove the air and it is submerged. Would still set the bag in a tub in case you spring a leak. For long pieces I have used a cheap PVC rain gutter capped on both ends or PVC pipe capped at...

I would be interested in taking a look at the sticker. There was a member on here that bought out a Chrysler / Dodge dealer that had some original invoices with pricing. I would likely be interested in a good accurate re-production for '68 Dodge Once the format is set the challenge will be...

Usually running adjustments are for the centering. With that much in and out your bearing preload is likely a little loose. That adjustment I believe needs to be done on the bench. (It has been over 13 years since I rebuilt mine so I may not recall all). There may also be a running preload...

For your thickness of metal they actually work pretty good. Most of them use inverters to bump up the amperage. I bought this one about 15 years ago. And finally added gas to it last year and really started to practice. Specs say it will go up to 3/16 thickness. With a little pre heating and...

In ‘68 that changed to rubber. You can un crimp the bottom channel and slide it out. I replaced mine. I can’t recall the source as it was about 8 years ago. Atlas obsolete parts? Maybe Put the P/N in a google search followed by Mopar and it may turn up something. If you don’t have a Parts...

Both are Polara/Monaco. Top dash is ‘68. Non A/C. Bottom with more silver accents is ‘67. In ‘68 they were starting to get concerned about glare. So you start seeing a reduction in shiny interior parts.

As for your seats. Here’s a thread where I rebuilt my’68 Polara seats. It will show you the factory construction and some tips. I put mine back as they were built in the factory. There are easier and more modern ways, but this should give you some tips. Epic 68 Polara bench seat rebuild for...