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A left hand drill bit can be your friend.

I think I mixed about 1/2 ammonia 1/2 warm water. And let it soak a couple of days. I did have a lid on my soaking tub. I took it out and rinsed it off. After it was rinsed I didn’t notice any smell.

Used tire sidewall was my plan, but haven’t done it yet until I find the correct style rivets. After soaking the old rubber on my current ones in ammonia they seem to be rejuvenated. On the internet it says that the ammonia re-moisturizes the rubber and brings back the flexibility. Not sure of...

Here’s the link. 2856361 ‘68 383 & 440 single exhaust resonator detail.

On my ‘68 383-2 I found a NOS muffler for a reasonable price from a member here and found an NOS resonator on E-bay. The stock sound is a nice quiet burble at idle and quiet at road speeds. I kept the stock single exhaust.

Here are some notes I had taken. I think I got the rims from Summit. Rim offset 3-3/4" back front 2-3/4" 5 bolt 2-5/8 spacing 4-1/2" diameter circle Hub 2-3/4"

I went with the 14” stock offset. I have some notes somewhere with those measurements. I went with the 14”s as that was the original size and look for’68 and I had just purchased the 14” tires a year or two earlier so I could roll the car around.

Here is a ‘68 382 2-bbl single exhaust. NOS resonator which includes the gooseneck over the rear axle. This still had the original parts tag on it to verify that it was the same as what the parts book called for. The tip ends even with the back edge of the gas tank. Dual exhaust had a little...

I have been running no gaskets for the last 4 summers and around 8,000 miles since my rebuild with no exhaust leaks or issues. ‘68 383

I have had my Remflex gaskets on now for about 4,000 miles with no issues including a couple of 6-8 hour runs with just shutting down for gas.

Air wash at highway speed does a lot to keep things cool. Sitting still at Hwy RPM’s the heat will go straight up instead of dissipating out the rear of the car.

I bought the “correct” replacement bolts and segmented nuts from R-T specialties. Not the cheapest option, but I haven’t found the segmented? Nuts anywhere else. 1000028A BOLT SET EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE, EXHAUST PARTS, 1000028A :Mopar Fasteners, Clips & Hardware

Here it is. REMFLEX Graphite. So far so good after 2,000 miles. My other ones didn’t last 1,000 miles before burning up.

I ha found an expensive one (compared to the $2.00 parts store version). It bid double thickness. It requires a light torque and so far hasn’t burned through like the last two. I have the info somewhere I will find it.

Distributor advance spring, exhaust crossover spring. A little different but likely close enough to do the trick and nobody the wiser.

Some hardware stores have a small selection of springs but are getting harder and harder to find ones that do. It just needs a little tension to keep it from rattling. They are awfully close in size to some distributor advance springs.

You know it definitely is possible to put it in 180 degrees differently as it really is just a quarter turn valve. If yours is 180 off, I would say that it is in the mostly open position. If you can check the temperature just below the flanges on each side you should be able to tell. If it is...

Pictures from top side.

If I am standing underneath looking at the emblem it rotates clockwise to open. At least that is the direction that is fighting the spring. Here is a video of the operation. This faces the front side of my engine. In ‘68 it looks like it was facing the rear. My manifold is a early’70’s.

Here are some pictures from my underside. Mine is a ‘68 but the manifold is a ‘70. When closed the weight is angled (not completely vertical. Turn it clockwise to open. The weight is now straight up and down. (Vertical when open). On mine when closed the Chrysler emblem is towards the block...