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@saforwardlook

Yes. Bouchillon has all the stuff you need in a single kit.

These guys have everything you need. Ask for Randy: Products: Air Conditioning - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

You mentioned an "engine overhaul." When this was done, was the engine block boiled and cleaned at the machine shop? If not, there could be a lot of crud in the coolant passages of the block. This would contribute significantly to an overheating problem.

That is exactly where I installed the sensor for my AutoMeter temp gauge! Easy peazy.

I would clean it really well, spray it down with 303 and wipe off the excess with a micro-fiber towel.

Looks fine to me. Make sure you run a bottle of rust inhibitor along with your green coolant; you should be fine.

Eric: One other thing to consider when looking for another housing: The housings for A/C and non-A/C are different. I learned this the hard way: As it turns out, both 383 and 440 engines WITH A/C use the housing with the 2 and 1/2 inch mounting boss. There is no special 440 engine power...

If your aftermarket temp gauge turns out to be accurate, I strongly suspect the coolant passages in your engine block are full of crud. Since you previously flushed out a lot of debris from the cooling system, I think that is likely the problem. As someone else suggested, I would pop the...

Bummer, John. Bummer. . .

I can confirm that the compressor on my '73 Newport Navajo turns off when I move the Temp lever to the right, until I hear the 'Click', with Off button depressed. I am very glad to have learned of this quirky workaround.

Hey! Thanks for this handy tip. I'll give it a go in my Navajo. Hey! I'm a poet!

Add my '73 Newport Navajo to the list.

Yes. More food for thought: We tend to direct our attention at our radiators, when faced with an over heating issue, but ignore the possibility that the engine block may be a significant contributor to the problem. Given fifty years or more, a lot of crud builds up in the water passages of...

You might wanna check with these guys: Home - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

If the bottom half of your radiator is clogged with crud, the flush with chemicals won't remove it. I would pull the radiator, take it to a good radiator shop, have them boil it out clean, and pressure-test it. Also, I would get rid of all the non-stock pulleys, water pump, w/p housing...

Thanks, Rex. I'm gonna do a little trouble shooting on mine next weekend. I hope I find that my heater control valve problem is the same as yours was.

Rex: I am living vicariously along with you on this leaking heater control valve. I am having the same problem with a wet floor on the passenger foot-well on my '66 convertible. Where are you sending your valve to have it rebuilt? Rip

Uh. . . I don't think you'd be polluting the thread, if you also posted those instructions here. . . I would love to hear / see how you went about the removal and re-install of the heater-A/C box.