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I got a Proform from Summit and had to return it because the vacuum advance wasn't working. It was also pictured with the Orange ECU, but arrived with a Blue one. I ended up getting a rebuilt A1 Cardone EI dizzy from O'reilly's for $35 (30-3897) and the Wiring Harness and Orange ECU from Summit...

Hey Saylor, I installed the Summit 850005 in April of 2016. This is the only photo I found in my folder of how I wired it to the ballast. Looks like "dmac" provided the info you needed to get the EI hooked up. If you need more info I would have to go look under the hood this weekend. There were...

What plastic cover is that? My ballast is naked on my '66

Rexus31, what was it that you did to the connection side of the Ballast resistor - just cleaned the contacts?

Carmine, I couldn't agree with you more in all that you've said. For the 3 cars I've switched over to EI whether Pertronix or Dizzy EI, I probably drive them each less than 300 mi/yr if that much. Before I switched from Points to Petronix on my '74 Fiat Spider the car started on one crank...

I had purchased a Pertronix Igniter II (91381A) and Flame-Thrower (45011) coil for my 383, but decided to go with the Factory type EI setup instead. I got the dizzy from O'Reilly's - A1 Cardone 30-3897 Electronic Distributor ($52.99 + $7 for core) and the ECU & Harness from Summit; BLUE ECU...

A38E86D32, As I posted in #23 I got a cardone dizzy from AutoZone and the tang was mucked up. I ordered another and 2nd one's tang was better, but the pick-up was not new. I went ahead and ordered two cardone's O'reilly's and picked the better of the two. The tolerance of the reluctor and...

That's how mine is also - tilted a bit. The top has a bit more gap than the bottom. Just make sure you have the .008 air gap and it should be fine. Check all the reluctor stars to make sure they all clear the pickup. I'll install mine Sat.

Remember, you need to use the BRASS feeler gauges due to the magnet on the pickup.

What do you mean "if you can adjust it?" You mean the .008 air gap? Adjust by the silver screw like adjusting points - if that's what you're referring to

Here's a photo of the "tang" of the dizzy from Autozone on the LEFT vs my stock dizzy Ordered 2 from O'Reilly's and picked the better of the two - Much Better!

"tang" the end of the dizzy shaft that inserts into the cam gear. The shafts end is "male" cutout, the cam gear is "female"

How did the "tang" on the cardone dizzy you got look? I got 2 from AutoZone & they were crap - wouldnt fit. Ordered 2 from O'reilly's to check on quality. Here's a comparison photo of the 1st one I got from AutoZone and my orig.

CONGRATS! WELL DONE!!!!

nalambright - sent you msg

If you get NO voltage at the single BLUE wire on the ballast with the KEY ON (no crank) something is definitely wrong. Like Big_John said, you need to trace the BLUE wire to the ignition switch. The BLUE wire gets its 12V at the switch via a RED wire also at the switch. Without voltage at the...

You didn't answer whether you tested the ballast itself for continuity. That single BLUE wire on the LEFT is the RUN side of the ballast and you should read voltage there if you have voltage on the coil side of ballast.

For checking continuity especially of long run wires, I've found this tool to be one of MY BEST FRENDS!!

Dobalovr, I recently installed my Electronic 850004 Dizzy from Summit on my 66TC. I was confused by which was the RUN side as well, but got it squared away - the following is what I went through to get it right. Hope This Helps! ECU WIRING CONNECTIONS My Ballast has (2) TWO connectors...

Used the piston stop and my TDC is correct... With the CAP, timing setting is 5d ATC. Since I was trying to go through the process of elimination and take the VCV out of the equation I disconnected it from the dizzy vac adv and plugged it off, set timing at 12.5 (as Without CAP) and the engine...