I’ll have to pull the panels off to be sure, but I am thinking I could reinforce the back of the opening in some way? Maybe a thin metal frame/bracket that those tabs could hang on to??
Thanks for the additional information. I am pretty sure those bezels are still on my switches…. After seeing Big John’s photo of the backside of the panel I am almost certain the little metal tabs were ‘pulled through’ the chip board (or whatever that material is) on the panel.
Does anyone happen to have any pictures of the back side of these switches and how they connect to the panel?
My 68 300 power switches all kind of ‘droop out’ of the panels. It looks like the tabs that hold them in place have blown out the chip board in the panel. I was going to come on here...
When I had to fiddle with mine, I used one of these spring loaded c ring type pliers. I think mine was actually for sprinkler head nozzle repairs, but the same concept. It was ‘good enough’ for what I was doing.
I don’t know if this pic would help, but here are the anchors in my ‘68. They are a different style than in your 62, but I would guess the anchor locations are similar. (I added the 3rd one in the middle. It was not there originally)
Out with the old:
In with the new!
It was definitely a little more effort than I would have thought, and I had to push and flex that new liner a lot more than I was comfortable with. But all in all I am happy with the result.
Aside for the potential damage risk to the glove box door...
Lookie what came in the mail today!
The material seems to be much more improved than what is currently installed…. But then again, what’s in there now is over 50 years old. The new one is like a plastic coated card/fiber board. Seems very strong. Excited about this new project.
Is it possible to replace a glovebox liner without pulling the dash apart? I have done no other research on this yet, figured I’d ask here first.
Thanks!
p.s. this is in a ‘68 300.
Big Thank you for this Devin. I am pretty sure the Type 1 switch is what is installed. I definitely know the Type 1 is what was just delivered. When I pull the old one I will reconnect with you about doing something with the old switch.
any other tips and tricks for this project are greatly...
Thanks @detmatt. I do have an NOS switch coming my way too. I figure if I have to pull the dash apart, might as well pull the column apart as well.
looks like the turn signal switch from rock auto is the best price at ~$320.
I am in a position where I too may need to replace my turn signal switch. Canceling cam broke last year and now I am chasing an electrical issue with my driver side rear turn signal and brake lights (no tail lights on both sides either). I can find the shee-mar switch on Rock Auto, but looks...
Since you’re on this subject, looks like my canceling cam just broke (left side) in my ‘68 300. It has a tilt/tele column.
anyone here have experience / any luck with this item:
Fits Chrysler 300 1967-1969 Turn Signal Cancelling Cam; Turn Signal Cam Signa
I like the price versus a whole new...
Hello all and Happy New Year!
I am not quite ready to move to the interior of my '68 300, but it appears Legendary may be having a pretty significant sale (25% off plus 5% more for online sales). This has certainly peaked my interest. I have seen that they have 15% sales quite often, but...
So the engine rebuild for my ‘68 300 convertible is taking way longer and costing WAY more than I expected. This is going to cause a few items to move down on the priority list...one of which is redoing the upholstery. The biggest issue with the current interior is really just the seat bottoms...
I did make the decision to go with the Enginestat pro product .
EngineStat Pro - New for the ultimate power user!
The iDash is definitely a more hip product, but I just don't have the time to learn the programming. And I am installing a Fitech EFI (
Go EFI 4 600 HP | Matte Black – FiTech Fuel...