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I have not had mine apart recently but I don't think that straight screw belongs in there. Pretty sure they were all Phillips head screws. Is it too long and bottoming out by chance?

If you have the steering wheel on and in it's keyed position, and is down within 1/8" of the housing, it is on as far as it will go. How about this........Are you sure the snap ring on the shaft is in its place? Maybe the shaft is not down far enough in the column. Did you take it apart?

I'm not sure I'm following you on what you mean by the "lever keeps popping out of place" but the springs all look to be in good condition. I am wondering if the screw on the left is the correct one? Is that what keeps loosening up? The correct screw will have a shank that when tightened down...

One probe on Neg post of the battery and one probe on the case of the ECU. If it has a good ground, it will show .03 ohms or less. If you get a bad or high resistance, try scraping a little paint off the firewall around the mounting bolt. Better yet, put a star washer between the firewall and...

The first thing I would do is check the case ground on the ECU. A poor ground (more than .08 ohms) causes a transistor to open because of being overheated and will close the circuit back up when cooled down. People always blame the orange box when many times it is their own doing. The Chinese...

It is true that the Chinese made orange boxes are inferior to the older Mopar units but I suspect the bigger issue is in piss poor grounding being the norm since even the good ones will fail and open that transistor if not properly grounded. I always verify less than .05 ohms at the case and I...

If you have a digital multi meter, Test between that new ECU and neg post on your battery. Bet you get a high resistance reading. You need a good ground on that case otherwise the ECU gets hot and opens up a transistor until it cools down. Then it will start and run again until it overheats...

So....It sounds like a switch has failed.

Glad you found it! What light is in the C pillar? Is it an interior light?

Some of those electrical draws are hard to find. Diligence is your friend here. I once had a small draw like that ended up to be the damn light in the glove box. Switch failed to turn off the light when the glove box was closed. I found it by accident when I went out at after dark and spotted a...

Your amp test pretty much tells the tale. Your motor is in good shape. A 30 amp fuse will handle that 38 amp spike. Is the 13 amp draw on high speed or low? IMO, You have a bad connection somewhere. Probably at the switch. Those push on spade connectors leave something to be desired. Chrysler...

I think we can say Success!

.5 is 1/2 of an ohm. It really don't get much better than that. My meter reads .2 across the leads. You have a good ground. If your voltage is above 14.4, you have something else going on. Bad connections, bad regulator.....something.

If your battery discharges with the ignition off, You need to find the drain. Could be a lot of reasons but I would start by disconnecting the alternator and see if it is still discharging. IF so, your alternator has a bad diode. If that is not the problem, you have something else draining the...

If you have a digital Ohmmeter, take a reading between Battery Neg and the case of your regulator. I bet you get a high reading. Should be less than .5 ohms.

My 70 Challenger was doing the voltage spikes many years ago. It sent the amp gauge to full charge for a short period then back to normal. I Knew it was in the regulation so swapped in another new regulator. Did the same thing. I finally figured out that my regulator was not properly grounded. I...

Nice looking Newport! I have the Pertronix in my 60 Dart. Been there for 25 years with no issues. If you go with the Mopar kit the only thing to be forewarned on is to make sure you have a good ground on the orange box. Too many people (me included) mount the box to the firewall and when they...

Good luck Ross. Electrical gremlins are frustrating to say the least. With the symptoms you are having, after checking all the connections it could even be a broken wire midstream or as you mentioned an issue with the motor itself. I know you will figure it out though.

I think you are on the right path. It sounds like a loss of continuity somewhere. If not in the power circuit, it could also be the ground wire from the motor to the firewall. Have you checked that?

If this has been going on for a while, the 15 volts may have taken it's toll on the battery. Probably cooked the water out of it. You may just have a bad ground on the regulator causing all of your problems. As 413 mentioned in post 13 you need to verify a good case ground on the regulator.