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That car is hot! Seems like a no brainer to me. Interior is semi easy to deal with. Straight body is what counts and that car is sexy especially for $3k

Great looking cars. Here's my 68. Its been lots of fun so far.

Thanks, I am really really liking this car a lot.

Thanks for all the tips. SMS seems to have a TON of really cool material just in general. I'll contact them after work today for samples and pull the sail panels out this weekend and see exactly what I have to work with. The sun visors are perfect. Headliner is mostly missing and the sail panels...

Thanks, the FLAPS by me has the cap in the second pic in stock. The Chevy truck thing was way easier to find at all the local stores. I'm going to swing by after work and check it out. $8 The radiator cap thing just seems cheesy to me, yeah it's behind the license plate but I know it's there...

So the PO of this Fury III put a plastic locking gas cap on this car and it's a nightmare to get out of the filler neck, it gets tuck and is like 3" down in there. Looking at pics it seems like the original gas cap is basically a radiator cap. Is there something out there you guys can recommend...

So I have a 68 Fury III and the interior is great aside from the sail panels and headliner. Now that I got all the electrical working like it should, I was hoping to buy some new blue sail panels but I cant find a 100% guaranteed fit for this car or the original color blue as an option. When I...

Basically yes....only mid range tunable too.

So for those of you following along at home...... The horn button works but the horn ring doesn't. So if anyone needs that chrome fancy style horn ring I have a really nice one for sale now. I was able to fix the original matte aluminum one.

It is VW air cooled. I've been messing with VW since I was 18. Built (not had built for me) several show cars for myself and other people, several hit the magazines. Just burnt out I guess. I've always loved the style of 60's American cars and had been looking for a few months for the "right"...

So when I initially put in the distributor I advanced it to where I thought the idle should be and then backed it off some. Put the timing light on it and was 35° advance at idle. Had some mega low end power off a dead start that's for sure. (like throw you in the back seat) Pinging like a ****...

Perfect! this is EXACTLY all the info I needed. I have a timing light with advance function and tach so that's why I was asking what full advance should be. I guess my thought is I'm not driving around at idle and because my background is mostly air cooled engines, full advance timing is...

All great info thanks! So the missing details.... 383 with a 2 barrel Holley and a freshly rebuilt stock distributor for that engine. Auto trans. I stuck the timing light on it and my numbers were way off. The 10-12 at idle seemed normal to me and something around 20° advance out of the...

Perfect thanks!! that's exactly what I needed to see! The 38 degrees is what I'm aiming for more or less?

So after installing the rebuilt distributor I got from @halifaxhops (gorgeous work btw) and setting the timing by ear so it ran smooth enough to get the timing light on, I realize I dont know what I'm looking for on the pulley as a reference mark. I have the piece on the block with the marks on...

This is exactly why I call it the Ralph Nader button. Thanks for the info...so the chrome ring in the above pics will fit?

More pics and steering wheel/horn ring fixed and updated. Got a rebuilt distributor (Thanks halifaxhops!) Will install this weekend. Still needs some TLC here and there, but it's just fun to tinker on something new to me.

That would be great! thanks

So here's an update. Two of the 3 screws on the back of the horn ring that hold it to the contact pad were completely stripped. Zero threads. Steering wheel threads are ok. Just so happens a 4mm tap fits right in the stripped hole and makes nice clean threads. I've got tons of metric hardware so...

Little more than 2 months...so far it's a lot of fun to learn new stuff.