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The car has been successfully revived and has tragically died again. It looks like Carlisle will not be happening this year. The car only made it 30 more miles and it decided that it was going to try to blow itself up. Now to tow it home and do an autopsy. Then save money to just completely...

There are no other gaskets available on RockAuto. I’m just using copper RTV for now to finish the job, but I will look for proper gaskets later. I just need the car to get to Carlisle and back safely, anything else is a bonus.

It ran with open manifolds for about 30 seconds. It was quiet and smooth.

All buttoned up with the new bearings and windage tray. I will be installing the new gauges tomorrow to see how the engine does. Then, a quick check for leaks and figure out what to do for exhaust gaskets.

The other night I cleaned the acorns out of the oil pan and mouse bedding out of the pickup tube. I got all 16 rod bearings in, and I have three main bearings installed on the caps. I need to remove the rear main seal and drop the crank some more to get the upper bearings out. No bearings...

The bottom end is clean! If I’m not mistaken it looks like there is still cross-hatching on the cylinder walls.

Some randomly selected bearings out of the engine. There is grooving, scarring and evidence of contamination. So, not the worse thing in the world since it was caught in time. Everything is on the way, hope to have the engine back up and running in about a week or so since I only have weekends...

It didn’t run much longer after the knock started. It should be good.

Gradual illumination of the check gauges light. It would turn off after the engine started then eventually it started flickering and now it’s solid. I’m waiting for a whole new instrument panel to come in from Murray Park. It was going to happen eventually, better sooner than later since I...

My plan is to do mains and rods, and add a windage tray. So I know the car is good, but has this issue. Time to start gathering parts.

So tragedy struck tonight. I will be rushing now to fix the engine. The lower end began to knock horribly. So now I have to pull the oil pan and do main bearings.

Some more NOS stuff came in and a length of power steering return hose. I am starting to kill the rust in the trunk floor. I will be installing some sound deadened so it doesn’t need to be perfect. The trunk got vacuumed out and the loose rust was wire brushed and the trunk floor cooked with...

I did a Charger interior with them. I was not really satisfied. The service was despicable, and they never kept their promises for date of delivery. They sadly, have the monopoly on many interior parts.

So after 4 drives the questionable brake booster gave out. Now to remove it and send it to Booster Dewey.

So after adjusting the accelerator pump the car does not stall on hard acceleration but it is sluggish. I suspect the float level on the rear bowl is not set properly. The car has lost power brakes sadly I will see how to get it going again.

A short drive to the end of my neighborhood and back in the 72 Imperial.

I need a recommendation for who to send my radio out to. It looks decent but it does not work. Who out there restores radios and has a good reputation? Ward’s is gone, and I have sent some emails to other places but never heard back.

Yes, that is true, but the flat top is blatantly wrong. Safety upgrades are more important at the end of the day.

No, the bowls are different too. You cannot install the two hump lid on the flat to and vice versa. They are two totally different castings.

Part correctness is more than just functionality. Appearance has much to do with it as well. Even though some people don’t think so. I like to make a car look like it had never been messed with. The flat top master will work fine, but I use them as cores for the correct master cylinder. Any...