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and then grenades his transmission doing a burnout...

Those look like leather seats and are in perfect shape. Are they original?

We replaced the springs on our 68 300 vert in late 2018 with new ones from ESPO. When I looked a them the other day, I noticed they looked more like cretin90's right-side spring than the left side. I remember even when they were first installed, they were pretty much flat with almost no arch...

Don't look too bad for sitting out who knows how many years. The dash looks pretty gnarly though.

I decided to replace the brake lines and master cylinder before putting the engine back in. I'm about 1/2 way done with that project. In the meantime, I've taken on a few other projects. For one, just bought a 4 post lift that I have to put together :thumbsup:

QQE: can you let us know where you'll be located at Carlisle? My apologies if you've already posted that numerous times :rolleyes:

Got the new flywheel and Centerforce clutch installed yesterday. There's just one or two minor things left to do in the engine bay before the engine goes back in. Hopefully next weekend!

What's absolutely necessary for me when going through a tunnel is: windows open, downshift, floor it just love that sound :icon_fU:

I manually downshift when approaching long down grades. I also downshift manually if I know I'm going to need some speed, since it doesn't have part throttle downshifting. When possible, I shift when there's not a lot of load on the drive line. i.e. I anticipate the situation and downshift...

Installed our new high-capacity air compressor! It replaced an old 70's Craftsman 30 gallon portable unit. Some may call it overkill but the way I look at these kinds of major purchases is that the things I'm buying I want to last me the rest of my life. And now I can use my bead blasting...

I suppose you're concerned with gouging the paint and causing rust. You could get some of this PTFE film and put it in that spot so the pieces slide together without rubbing the painted surface: McMaster-Carr

That's awesome!

How about I run it on hydrogen -- then it'll actually be lighter with a full tank :lol:

Sure thing, I'll try and snap some on the next nice day. Yes, it is fun! Having the engine in the rear gives it pretty good grip for acceleration. A totally different experience from driving a boat with a torquey big block. It's a contrast to the C-bodies so I can choose one or the other...

When I look up under the dash I can see the firewall on the interior-side doesn't look like it was painted at all so I wonder if these spots got much paint, if any. After clearing the leaves and gunk, maybe something like this would be good insurance against future corrosion: Eastwood Internal...

Yay! Finally got the engine back together to the point it was at before I had to remove the crankshaft Also mounted the radiator...

Although I can see inside the car through this rust hole, it doesn't open up directly to the other side. Does the cowl drain down past this spot? This is a 68 Newport

I own a 91 MR2 turbo that puts down nearly 400whp on E85, so when I want my small car rocket fix I jump in that. I think some of you are getting my point -- not everything will get done right away, but when the original item needs to be replaced, I'd go with the lighter version. The heads for...

It's not so much the goal, it's the result, which would be all of those things you mentioned. Yes, I know better acceleration can be gained with more power. Better handing with improved suspension. Fuel economy with a smaller/tamer engine. But reducing weight leads to improvements in all...

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Aluminum water pump and headers (I'm assuming shorties) is the kind of ideas I'm looking for. Scraping off the sound deadening or removing interior, not so much. I'd be interested in fiberglass items but are any available for a 68 Newport? What is the...