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Looking good! I know how much work this is. On the bright side after all that blocking you don't have to go to the gym to work out your arms! I remember back in the early 70's the shop I was working in was repainting a 64 Rolls Royce. When prepping it I found that from the factory the whole car...

I've been making a living doing paint and bodywork since 1972. I've repaired a lot of rust especially working in NY for years, but the best rust preventative by far was moving to Arizona and avoiding rust at all cost! At least on my own cars.

This is the proverbial "Between a rock and a hard place" I agree the roof panel and maybe some of the structure should be replaced. I also agree how difficult it would be as mentioned above to locate, ship and find a shop to do the job. If only we had aftermarket parts for our cars! Good luck on...

When you paint the top are you planning on painting the whole car? If not and as you say the vinyl top is good I'd leave it alone. Is there any signs of rust under the top? If not I'd leave it alone. Best case scenario removing the top is no major rust, however at the least you'll have a pretty...

The fender could be pushed back but the door does still need to come up evenly. While you have the fender off adjust the door to the quarter panel and rocker panel since these are fixed points. If you have a good and even gap on the rear and bottom then you just align the fender to the door.

What I would do is remove the door and then you should get more movement upward of the hinges on the body. I just don't see any reason why the hinges won't go up.

You have a narrow gap in the front and a wide gap in the rear. They are both pretty even from what I can tell in the pictures. Looks like it should just be a matter of proper adjustment. There's no secret to adjusting it, it's just trial and error. first you need to loosen the hinges on the body...

Probably bought out by some foreign company.

FYI Dupont is now called Axalta.

Just to clarify I've made a living since 1972 doing paint and bodywork and I will NOT spray single stage metallic for all the reasons @volksworld mentioned in the above post.

Yes, I agree. I used their brand Restoration Shop single stage Acrylic Urethane on my 79 300 and was very happy with the results. Your color is a metallic so I would not go single stage but they do have a Basecoat/Clearcoat system also.

Catalyzed or 2K paint does NOT need months to dry or harden before sanding and buffing. In fact waiting too long can make it harder to do. Once the solvents evaporate out in a day or two get on it. Here in HOT Phoenix I'm color sanding and buffing after 24 hours. In a cold climate maybe 36.

I would use an Epoxy primer and then any type of catalyzed single stage. Do that and it won't rust in your lifetime and probably in your kids also. Just make sure the prep is good and all the existing rust is removed. I wouldn't try to brush it on. Spraying it would be best.

Stick the tool between the glass and molding and slide across until you find a clip. Then you need to hook the clip and twist the tool while gently pulling up on the molding.

Here's the tool you need. It can still be difficult even with the tool due to the buildup of debris behind the moldings. It's called a Reveal trim tool.

I've used a ratcheting strap connected from the bar to the door handle. Works great. You just have to make sure you pad any areas that might get rubbed or damaged by the strap. You won't have to put that much tension on the strap. Good luck.

Love the color! Great work!

Blair Spot Weld Cutters

Plasma cutter is the way to go!

Not yet. I think it's topped out at 97 so far. It's actually not going to be for awhile. Not complaining.