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Found it: Intake Manifold Engine & RPM Range Test - Mopar Muscle Magazine A shame they don’t display the numbers the same way with a 3000 rpm figure for all. I wonder what the Torker would’ve put out.

Probably Mopar muscle. It’s in article form, laid out very similarly to the one I linked. Let me see if i saved it on my computer.

I have literally no extra room under my hood. There’s an impression of the air cleaner in the hod pad. I may need to scrape back every quarter of an inch I can get. If that’s the case, I may end up with an action plus. There is also a RB shootout somewhere. They start with factory cast iron...

The DP4B is the one they tested. The CH4B is the proper name for the 440 version. They have a typo and call it a C4B.

This is a test with fewer cubes and more cam, but shows what different manifolds will do. Part 1 of Hot Rod's Mopar Intake Manifold Shootout I bought a CH-4B because I’m prioritizing power below 5000 or 5500 rpm.

Good for you! I’m stoked to follow it along. (I don’t want to jinx myself but I may have just made a long-coming job switch and will be able to put my plans in motion too)

Appearance is a minor concern. It's mostly about cost, noise, durability.

Because you’re spending money I don’t have. If the budget covered just spending $2000 rather than $1000, that would solve it!

Let me just highlight this part again: "Headers [nice ones cost some dough] is rather major expense plus the exhaust work involved." Yes. A set of TTI headers, if you get them coated, and figure other associated costs are $1000 or close to it. This is the "marginal $1000" that I've talked...

To echo some other opinions, what do you mean by "worthwhile?" I don't believe you'll see much of any benefit on MPG. Certainly less than 10%. That would take a long time to pay off at the pump. If you're looking for a financial reason, you're better off putting the money into your 401(k) and...

That gives me two questions: 1) How much did you change to get the HP manifolds to fit? 2) Why wouldn't you do it again, and would your opinion be different if the engine, exhaust, manifolds, etc., were already out of the car for other reasons?

Going to buy a full system. Was hoping to have something pre-bent so I could bolt it on when time came to reinstall the engine and trans. TTI will give me head pipes to match their exhaust to the manifolds. Waldron will only match their exhaust to logs.

I'm planning out the future rebuild of my engine, trans, rearend on my Imperial, and will be putting on a new exhaust at the same time. It's got logs with a single exhaust now, but I've got HP manifolds which will be going on, along with duals. Budget is an issue, so I'm looking to do everything...

I just came across a manifold that looked the same to my eye, was described as a C-Body HP manifold for the driver's side, and was a 408, not a 409. Just curious if it was the wrong casting or the wrong description.

Was there a -408 casting as well, or just the -409? I know this has been gone over before (and I'm just about to do a search), but is there a definitive list of the HP manifolds for C-Bodies by year?

Good point. I see a different casting number for regular C body manifolds but not for Magnum manifolds. Do those get different castings as well? On another (related) topic, I talked to a guy about doing a run of these. Best case, you could break even with 25 sets, but it could also be 60 sets...

Since you can't see the casting numbers clearly, I reached out to YearOne today. Here's their reply: HP689LH (Drivers Side) INFO 17 (I) TECH INFORMATION INFO 18 (I) Includes casting number 2843992 and pentastar as original. INFO 19 (I)...

Is that why TTI asks for the manifold casting number when you order? I thought it was because the manifolds dumped in different places. Good to know.

On my car, it makes some noise when cold, but goes away when warm. Another Imperialist suggested that I not f--/ with it, rather than risk breaking off a stud and having the joy of a bigger problem. I think your issue is different and you're getting the leak while hot, after a long drive, right?

Given that description, the only thing I can think of is if you can remove some of the 165* arc with some sections of straight tube and angled flanges. That might allow you to put resonators aft of the mufflers. Otherwise, you're right: you'll have to live with the noise. Got any pictures?