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C-bodys didn't come with F60-15s (those are the tires John asked for an opinion). They were used on B&E-Bodys and the date code ist important if you want to get your car certified to a certain level (OE gold etc). If you come to C-bodys the H70-15 do have a higher value as no reproduction tires...

the F60-15s are available as repros. They are about a Grand for a set. So decent (not too old) used ones have a certain value. If they are originals they are just something worth if they are really mint and have the correct date code on them for the show car needed. But I do not see a high...

originals or repros?

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"no" to all of them. I like to drive my cars as often as possible. I don't worry parking next to other cars. And I would convert a 71 Polara to look like a 70 always again:)

? driving it often? Paking it next to an Audi? Or the 70/71 assembly?

I disagree. It is a question of will, even though sometimes it is a pain, too. As is the lack of some comfort if something isn't working (like the AC usually). I do not live in the US but try to drive vintage Mopar only (despite winter months if salt is on the road). Mechanical parts are easily...

ok, another try. You wrote: I read in another thread that you drive a Ford (which recently burned). I would rather drive a pink Imperial than a Ford. I would rather drive any old Mopar than a Ford. Being willing to drive a Ford instead of an old Mopar is not normal to me:wideyed:

I am not muddying waters. How about old Mopar Muscle cars? Nearly 50 years ago older people would have said that guys driving a plumcrazy, sublime, curious yellow or Go mango coloured muscle car aren't normal. The generation that drove cars in the 1930s/40s had mostly black, grey and beige...

what is normalcy? Who defines it? According to my neighbours I am not normal as I don't drive any modern "Hi Tech" car just 45+ year old american iron.

I guess everyone long enough in the Hobby has a Johnny R. story. If germans didn't like his pricing we got some special callings, too

i kinda like it I am a man and not scared to drive a pink car.:steering: I even had a Mod Top before

nothing to worry about. A 300C convertible was at the time of filimng (1988-1990) already a very valuable collectible so it is still around for sure Carsten

didn't know we have so many Chevyluvas here........... I SWEARED I am never going to own a car with a catalytic converter back in the 80s. I would rather drive a badly rusted out fuselage than a car buillt within the last 40 years

Hi Gary, good luck in selling it. Chargers are the hottest Mopars on the market right now. Selling it in "as is" condition is possible but you could get a way better return if you would complete it more. If it has a Fender Tag/Broadcastsheet and has the matching engine you could fetch up to 50k...

the collector car value guide might be fine for 90% of the general cars but again is not correct in case of Muscle cars IF it goes into detailed options etc. A 69 383 RR, one of 80.000 buillt and rotten as this one with no docs (Tag/Sheet) is a big desaster. Even if the work is done properly no...

whereever these pricenumbers come from (hagerty?) and usually work they can not be really used on Mopar Muscle cars where it really goes into detail if you want to mess with them. Things like "Numbers matching engine", documentation of colour and options (fender tag/broadcastsheet) play a major...

no fender tag/broadcastsheet won't help. You can't document the options. It would get restored if it would be an M-code or J-code 69 RR but not being one of 80k H-code 383 Runners Carsten

I couldn't live with the dash (round speedo) in an overall boxy design dash