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My trans chattered going into reverse so I took a crack at adjusting the bands and even played with the pressure. It didn't resolve the issue completely but adding Lucas trans additive did. A few thousand miles later it's been good. There's a 125k on it...

I just got done sorting this out on a Thermoquad... Shorten the choke pull off arm til the choke just has a crack at the top maybe a 1/8". You have to play with it, put the long end in a vise and bend it back at the 'elbow' but only a tiny bit at a time... < 1/16. It may take awhile til the...

Same problem here even though fuel still squirts no matter how long it sit's. I'm about to try a fuel check valve. They recommend putting it as close to the tank as possible.... Jack

Gibbs GP-1 uses the same American Refining Grps additive package Brad Penn originally used. There's some conflicting info on whether Penn Grade uses the same formula anymore. I haven't used Penn Grade but the Gibbs is green like the Brad Penn was.

The AMD's I bought didn't have the oil cap hole clocked correctly so the tabs pointed vertically or perpendicular to the cover. They sat around for couple yrs before I got around to putting them on so I figured there was no point contacting them. That was also a couple years ago and they been...

When I dropped the pan on my '77 recently I replaced the shift linkage and throttle seals, adjusted the bands and used the FEL-PRO TOS18583 coated pan gasket. Used Valvoline Dex/Merc available at Wally world and just for good measure a 24oz bottle of the Lucas tranny fix but due to a shutter...

I generally use e-free gas but it's a non branded product although it's sold at a Sunoco station the pump itself is not labeled as such, so how do you know what your really getting from a quality standpoint? Most generic gas sold in eastern PA comes from the Sunoco refinery in Philly but it's...

The harness I have has 2 blue wires that come off the back of the alt spade clip. 1 goes to the ballast, the other is for the solenoid. On the attached schematic it looks like the ballast lead is tied to the OEM elec choke control...? IDK... The Edelbrock used the same 12v source and I grounded...

The carb solenoid lead I used comes directly off the Alt. so it too only energizes when running. I tried running without the choke plate and it was a bear to start. Putting the plate back in seemed to help and then I thought might as well go all the way. Now I'm finessing the pull off rod. The...

On TQ's but not all elec chokes used those. Thr just another emission device... Didn't an AVS have elec choke at all ? I hooked up their gizmo and it works now. Wonder whats inside that thing, it's not big enough for a relay. Thanx for the schematics, I did learn that 12v I'm using is for a carb...

It looks right except I don't have that choke controller. Any diagram pre-73 doesn't even show a choke, didn't they use them before that ? Maybe I need that gizmo. The Edelbrock worked fine hooked up that way.

I have a bigger problem now, I'm getting my 12v off the alternator, which is a factory bullet connector but it blows an ignition fuse when I ground it, at least to the manifold. Does it matter where it's grounded like the carb...?

At an intake bolt under the manifold. Without getting into to it on this thread, I have to check my clearances and see what I can do to use gaskets...

The carb and manifold came with a divorced choke but since I planned on not running a choke I blocked the cross over. I didn't feel like taking the intake off again so I got the electric kit but I've discovered a leak on top of the valley pan so I'm going to have to anyway. I'm having a hell of...

Maybe the OEM unit helps control particularly a divorced choke with the heat assist shown above but I think that gets a feed from the ballast or some other source. This only has one lead and it goes to the ground on the choke so I don't see it doing anything. I'll skip it for now....Thnx for...

The TQ electric choke I bought came with the heat assist gizmo. Is it needed and whats its function since it goes to ground ? My Edelbrock didn't use anything like this...

Isn't the controller more of just a on/off deal...? Lets forget about that for now. On a regular divorced choke the bi metal spring is not energized, it operates on heat only. The TQ chokes added the 'heat assist' to pull the choke off earlier to aid in what else....??? Save polar bears, Look...

600k...?!? I read on B bodies some guys use the wiper circuit but I'm led to believe the choke itself draws only .5 amps were the heat assist more like 2 1) Did you block your crossover, 2) Are we talking about the heat assist probe or just the choke ?

I thought I could just run the heat assist continuously like an electric choke and that would compensate for the blocked crossover but not sure there designed for that unless the controller is mainly an emissions thing ? It could also, potentially limit were I could connect it since it will draw...

I've had them before, I just wanted to see how this works. It came with the carb and manifold. I never knew about the heat assist. I'll end up going your route but as long as this doesn't cost me anything I'll try it... I'm guessing your's skips the controller ? I also read were the choke can...