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Those compressor clutches are pretty robust and last a long time. As long as it engages, doesn't slip or chatter while running, you should be fine. Like the previous posts stated, hang on to your compressor as long as you can. A factory service manual is a must have tool for our old rides.

Re-core. You are fortunate enough to have a few old school rad shops in your area so take advantage of that.

When you are running your A/C you are pulling heat from the condenser thus bumping up your engine temp, especially while idling in stop and go traffic, which is more the norm these days in metro areas. 200 degrees is really not that bad in traffic, on the open road it's probably closer to 190...

The OEM condensers have a notch cut out of the passenger side bottom of them to clear a bumper bracket. I have not seen that notch on aftermarket replacements. Also I believe the line connections are different than OEM.

The fill plug on my '68 is on the passenger side of the compressor, just like the FSM illustration a few posts earlier shows.

Don't do it! Different molecular structure of the freon and the oils are not compatible at all. If you have R-12 use it. Leave the can on the charging hose and close the valve if you don't use it all. Be careful not to overcharge it either.

Was the A/C on? Even if it were non functioning, these older cars did not have a low pressure cut off switch to shut down the compressor. If the A/C was not running the compressor clutch bearing probably froze, thus resulting in the squealing, smoking drive belts. If that is the case you can...

There is a vendor out there, theheaterboxguy.com. He rebuilds entire heater box assemblies for A,B, & C bodies. He would be an excellent source of info for you. I met him a few years ago at Carlysle, he does top notch work. Good luck and thanks for reaching out to us guys that work with the...

If you have a local radiator repair shop in your area he can probably pressure test, clean and repair or re-core if necessary. A new replacement core will probably be aluminum and not as stout as the original copper core.

On A/C equipped cars the receiver / drier is located on the passenger side of the rad. You would need to get something like a tall cylinder type of overflow bottle. If you fill your rad to the top of the neck you will lose coolant from the overflow. Try less coolant in the rad tank as...

Some belt flop is normal on these cars. When it is very hot & humid outside run you A/C on the MAX AIR setting. This recirculates the air inside the car instead of pulling very hot, humid air from the outside. On todays vehicles this is known as RECIRC.

The genuine Chrysler fan with the clutch is your best option just as Big_John said previously. I know a few street rod guys that use that set up because it is the best at keeping their engines cool without having to resort to an electric fan. Plus you don't want the headache of trying to find...

Beautiful car! Great advice to follow in the previous posts. Good luck.

By all means replace the evaporator & heater cores. As mentioned in an earlier post the Heaterbox Guy sells fully restored HVAC units. I talked to him a few years ago at Carlisle and saw his restored boxes, they looked great. For a compressor go with the Sanden . Bouchillion Perfomance...

The charge ratio for R12 to 134 is 20% less than the listed amount for R12. In other words if the amount of R12 required is 3lb.- 4oz, converted to ounces is 52 oz, less 20% is 41.6 oz. which equals 2lb.-6oz. charge. That would equal 3 and a half 12oz. cans of 134. Flushing the oil and...

Get a factory service manual. It is what the mechanics (they weren't called techs yet) used back in the day when they had one to do for the first time or for a reference later on. You can get them now on cd-rom or printed repopped ones. It will pay for itself the first time you use it and for...

Did you ever change the expansion valve when you did the retro fit? Our cars are old and it's usually a good idea to change them out when retro fitting. I know it worked great until now but they are known to stick open or closed. A set of gauges is a must to diagnose A/C operation. Good luck...

New evaporator core. While you’re there change the heater core as well.

Is there a radiator repair shop in your area. They might be able to repair the one you have.

If you are able to rebuild your original unit go for it. These days reman units, no matter what part, are a crap shoot. I put a reman compressor on my Fury a few years ago and it didn't even last a year. I bought a seal kit for my original one, followed the FSM instructions to the letter...