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On my 68 fury I used the old 15x7 cop car wheels 20 yrs ago when they were strong,cheap and readily available...4 1/4 inch backspace...don't know about your body style but mine's pretty low and I only have about an inch of clearance up front with the wheel turned between the tire and outer...

NAPA 36756...73 fury...the drum brake hose points upward, i drilled another hole for the retaining tab on the hose bracket and rebent the metal line so the hose became more horizontal

just to horrify the purists our oval track Fury had 3/8 spacers on the bolts between the lower ball joint and spindle and the strut bar shortened an inch...no clue what that would be in degrees

Another method...4 Jack stands and strings...strings parallel, measured off rockers and rear tires...at wheel centerline...incredibly tedious to get it all set up right but it works

i went for the Carlsons just because RA said they were steel while the Raybestos ones weren't specific and the last thing i wanted was to wind up with phenolic ones... I guess ignorance is bliss but we did many disc conversions on our race cars (1/4 mile asphalt oval) and never changed...

Rockauto's great unless your parts are shipped out of 2 or 3 different warehouses and then the shipping price triples...for some cheaper stuff its easier to buy from your FLAPS cause the increase in price is less than the shipping....i usually look it up on RA , then search the part # on amazon...

lack of caster can cause it to wander...shops used to aligning modern stuff where this isnt adjustable would probably just set the toe and not much else...upper control arm bushings can be rotated out in the front and/or back in the rear to move upper ball joint location back

while you're at it replace the rubber brake hoses too...

the back of it should have a square boss like a carriage bolt to keep it from spinning when trying to get the locknut on and off...some of the cheaper ones out there may not have it...

i have the 225 /70 15's on police car rims on mine...one of the issues i came across was the fact that at this point that size is basically an SUV tire...so trying to come up with a US brand tire resulted in goodyear wranglers, firestone destinations etc...finally settled on general altimax

on a self energizing brake system (one where the adjuster floats with the shoes rather than being solidly mounted to the backing plate) when the brakes are applied the whole assembly rotates in the direction the drum is turning...this basically jams the rear shoe against the drum and causes it...

yes

mine had an unknown rear bar that's been in it over 20 years...it wouldn't clear the new TTI exhaust (2 1/2) where it turned down behind the axle...i would have had to put spacers at least 1/2 inch thick between the brackets and the frame rails to use it...will probably attempt to make it work...

67 300 convert...maybe i'm crazy but i dont see where your rear bar attaches to the chassis...it looks like its just attached to the links and hanging in front of the exhaust

half the battle is finding a machine shop that still has a clue how to do this and won't screw up the seal surface on the axle hacking the retaining ring off....being able to do it correctly yourself...priceless

Edelmann 8518 should be the seals for that piece (and the one you're better off not touching)...rockauto, ebay, amazon...seals a couple bucks shipping probably lots more

a rubber bushing bonds to its outer sleeve and its inner shaft...when the shaft rotates the rubber itself twists and springs back when unloaded...a urethane bushing is stiff and does not twist...the shaft rotates inside it...so it tends to wear out from the friction of the rotating shaft...and...

generally slotted nuts are shorter than castle nuts...if you have an Ace hardware nearby check them...idk about fine thread though

hard to tell from your pic...my bracket set has a bulged out area all around for that ridge to fit into...in your pic your bracket looks flat?

the replacements currently available do not have the extra tab on them..they are just a round bushing...K 7064...grabbed mine from O Reillys for 10 bucks...had my 68 for 23 years and those bushings had already been replaced by the current style when i got it...just replaced them now because i...