1962 Chrysler Newport rear disc breaks

AngelCalderon

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Hey guys, I have a 1962 Chrysler Newport I have a rear disc set up on there already my only problem I’m having is that the lug hole on the rotor is 3/4 and my studs are 5/8s so there is some play causing noise. Does anyone know where I can get rotors made?
 
Try taking it to a machine shop and let them machine a plug for the lug hole, press it in and then have them machine a new lug hole the proper size.
 
OR . . . leave the existing lug studs in the rotor, machining them flat, then drill new holes for the lug studs to match the wheels.

That slack between the two sizes of lug stud and lug stud holes in the wheel is dangerous to drive and also can waller-out the holes in the wheels, too. Nothing good about that!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
3/4” studs ? Wow ! What are they off of ? A truck ?
 
OR . . . leave the existing lug studs in the rotor, machining them flat, then drill new holes for the lug studs to match the wheels.

That slack between the two sizes of lug stud and lug stud holes in the wheel is dangerous to drive and also can waller-out the holes in the wheels, too. Nothing good about that!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

I was assuming the car still had the tapered shaft hubs and the drums have been divorced from them. I would rather not mess with that hub anymore if the "rotor" holes can be re-clocked.
I would like to know if the disc is hub centric now.
 
I was assuming the car still had the tapered shaft hubs and the drums have been divorced from them. I would rather not mess with that hub anymore if the "rotor" holes can be re-clocked.
I would like to know if the disc is hub centric now.

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IMG_5283.jpeg


IMG_5284.jpeg
 

You're right. The current situation doesn't look good.
Like you said, the disc isn't center by anything.
Plus, neither the disc "nor" the wheel is hub centric centered.
And is it just me, or does there appear to be a lack of clamping force because the nut can't spin down far enough on the lug even with the wheel on it? And the serrations on the lug have been worn down by the disc rattling around on it? It looks like the lugs have to go.
Are the lugs original equipment? I doubt it. They don't look like original left-hand threads on the driver side.
Maybe the whole problem is just like you said, the wrong lugs were installed trying to accommodate the disc.
It looks like the lugs are the wrong diameter "and" the wrong clamp length.
From what I can see from the pictures, it looks like the thing to do is remove the lugs and resize the existing holes for the lugs you need. That's assuming the disc holes aren't enlarged from the rattling.
Or, re-clock the disc holes in a different location and the right size for the new lugs that you need anyway, assuming those lugs aren't the right clamp length. Redrilling the disc "right" is a pain, and $$$$$$$$$$.
Are the disc any good? Do you know what they are? Can you get more of them?
Getting the lugs out is a pain if they are OE. But they're not because they would have been destroyed when the original drum was removed to do the disc job.
Even if the lugs were properly removed the first time, don't hammer them out on the car because that tapered hub is very subject to bending unless they are pressed out. It can't take the pounding that a later one-piece axle can.
So, do you have the tool to remove the hub from the axle so you can press the lugs out?


It's going to be interesting to see how this turns out.
 
You're right. The current situation doesn't look good.
Like you said, the disc isn't center by anything.
Plus, neither the disc "nor" the wheel is hub centric centered.
And is it just me, or does there appear to be a lack of clamping force because the nut can't spin down far enough on the lug even with the wheel on it? And the serrations on the lug have been worn down by the disc rattling around on it? It looks like the lugs have to go.
Are the lugs original equipment? I doubt it. They don't look like original left-hand threads on the driver side.
Maybe the whole problem is just like you said, the wrong lugs were installed trying to accommodate the disc.
It looks like the lugs are the wrong diameter "and" the wrong clamp length.
From what I can see from the pictures, it looks like the thing to do is remove the lugs and resize the existing holes for the lugs you need. That's assuming the disc holes aren't enlarged from the rattling.
Or, re-clock the disc holes in a different location and the right size for the new lugs that you need anyway, assuming those lugs aren't the right clamp length. Redrilling the disc "right" is a pain, and $$$$$$$$$$.
Are the disc any good? Do you know what they are? Can you get more of them?
Getting the lugs out is a pain if they are OE. But they're not because they would have been destroyed when the original drum was removed to do the disc job.
Even if the lugs were properly removed the first time, don't hammer them out on the car because that tapered hub is very subject to bending unless they are pressed out. It can't take the pounding that a later one-piece axle can.
So, do you have the tool to remove the hub from the axle so you can press the lugs out?


It's going to be interesting to see how this turns
You're right. The current situation doesn't look good.
Like you said, the disc isn't center by anything.
Plus, neither the disc "nor" the wheel is hub centric centered.
And is it just me, or does there appear to be a lack of clamping force because the nut can't spin down far enough on the lug even with the wheel on it? And the serrations on the lug have been worn down by the disc rattling around on it? It looks like the lugs have to go.
Are the lugs original equipment? I doubt it. They don't look like original left-hand threads on the driver side.
Maybe the whole problem is just like you said, the wrong lugs were installed trying to accommodate the disc.
It looks like the lugs are the wrong diameter "and" the wrong clamp length.
From what I can see from the pictures, it looks like the thing to do is remove the lugs and resize the existing holes for the lugs you need. That's assuming the disc holes aren't enlarged from the rattling.
Or, re-clock the disc holes in a different location and the right size for the new lugs that you need anyway, assuming those lugs aren't the right clamp length. Redrilling the disc "right" is
You're right. The current situation doesn't look good.
Like you said, the disc isn't center by anything.
Plus, neither the disc "nor" the wheel is hub centric centered.
And is it just me, or does there appear to be a lack of clamping force because the nut can't spin down far enough on the lug even with the wheel on it? And the serrations on the lug have been worn down by the disc rattling around on it? It looks like the lugs have to go.
Are the lugs original equipment? I doubt it. They don't look like original left-hand threads on the driver side.
Maybe the whole problem is just like you said, the wrong lugs were installed trying to accommodate the disc.
It looks like the lugs are the wrong diameter "and" the wrong clamp length.
From what I can see from the pictures, it looks like the thing to do is remove the lugs and resize the existing holes for the lugs you need. That's assuming the disc holes aren't enlarged from the rattling.
Or, re-clock the disc holes in a different location and the right size for the new lugs that you need anyway, assuming those lugs aren't the right clamp length. Redrilling the disc "right" is a pain, and $$$$$$$$$$.
Are the disc any good? Do you know what they are? Can you get more of them?
Getting the lugs out is a pain if they are OE. But they're not because they would have been destroyed when the original drum was removed to do the disc job.
Even if the lugs were properly removed the first time, don't hammer them out on the car because that tapered hub is very subject to bending unless they are pressed out. It can't take the pounding that a later one-piece axle can.
So, do you have the tool to remove the hub from the axle so you can press the lugs out?


It's going to be interesting to see how this turns out.
What do you think I should do exactly? I’m mechanically inclined and just frustrated at this point and don’t want to do the wrong thing
 
I would attempt to drill new correct size holes in the disc at a different clocking location and replace the lugs with new ones that will work. I would have to clamp the disc together in the drill press and use one disc as a pattern to drill the smaller holes in the other disc, then repeat the process. Or pay (how much $$$?) to have it done. There's no machine shop here in my garage.

Or, just replace the lugs and use sleeves around the lugs and see what happens. Not very excited about that option.

Good luck MR AngelCalderon. Should you or any of your Mission Impossible team be captured, any knowledge of your mission will be disavowed.
 
Hey guys, I have a 1962 Chrysler Newport I have a rear disc set up on there already my only problem I’m having is that the lug hole on the rotor is 3/4 and my studs are 5/8s so there is some play causing noise. Does anyone know where I can get rotors made?
I think the first question that should have been asked is what kit was used to add the disc brakes? From there you can usually figure out what rotor they used for the kit. They usually favor some sort of Ford piece.

The next question I would have is if the existing rotors could be turned and reinstalled? That would solve everything.
 
Oh... And I would trim the end of those U-bolts so they don't catch on anything and spoil your day.

1699115584540.png
 
I think the first question that should have been asked is what kit was used to add the disc brakes? From there you can usually figure out what rotor they used for the kit. They usually favor some sort of Ford piece.

The next question I would have is if the existing rotors could be turned and reinstalled? That would solve everything.

Actually, those questions were pondered.
 
Actually, those questions were pondered.
You know... I just reread this thread and I don't see where that question of what kit was used was directly asked. There was a "do you know what they are" from you and you are correct that you asked that. I just see no direct question of "what kit".

Sorry if I stepped on your toes. That's not my intention.

Think of this though... Sometimes a direct question, even if already asked in a previous post, can help figure out what the issue really is. There's also a matter of getting the OP's attention that it's something that would help him if we knew. In this case, we've not heard anything about it from the OP, unless I'm missing something.
 
I was more interested in the condition of the rotors and are they available.
I'm wondering if it's a kit or pieced together home job. It looks like a two-piece bracket. Is that a common arrangement?
And a compromising rotor.
 
I was more interested in the condition of the rotors and are they available.
I'm wondering if it's a kit or pieced together home job. It looks like a two-piece bracket. Is that a common arrangement?
And a compromising rotor.
When I first looked, I thought "Scarebird", as they use flame cut flat steel for caliper brackets. I looked and they don't offer this setup, or at least don't offer it now.

Most kits I've looked at use GM calipers and Ford rotors. The thing is that some kits sell a modified rotor and that's all great as long as the company is still in business and still offering those parts. I think some even re-drill rotors with the correct bolt pattern. No matter what, it's a mish-mash of various parts and unless you know what those are, you are kind of lost.
 
I’m not sure what kit exactly I believe it’s and 1979 firebird rotors and 1985 caddy elderado calipers from lead breaks
 
I’m not sure what kit exactly I believe it’s and 1979 firebird rotors and 1985 caddy elderado calipers from lead breaks
They do look like that might be correct. Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit - Mopar Rear Axles 8-3/4 9-3/4 I downloaded the install directions and I see the rotors have been drilled for 2 bolt patterns, 4 1/2 and the GM 4 3/4.

It might be worth a phone call to them. I see they have the dual pattern replacement rear discs and the prices look reasonable. In fact, probably less than the cost of having your existing rotors redrilled.
Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors | GM & Ford Brake Rotors
 
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