1967 383 Oil Pump replacement

GJS

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I'd like to change my oiling system entirely on my 67 383 4bbl. It's not that there is anything clearly wrong with it's function it's just that, as far as I know, it's original to the engine which has just over 100k on it. I'll therefore be pulling the pan, cleaning it all out, replacing the p/u tube and the intermediate shaft.

I was thinking of just going with a stock vol./press. pump but I'm wondering if I should consider going with a high vol./press. due to the engines age. I wouldn't think it would matter as there is no noise in the rotating assembly .. a standard pump and possibly upping the oil viscosity should keep it happy for a while.

What do ya'll think?
 
Replacing with a HI VOL works well....
You do not need a high pressure...
Going to a higher viscosity just adds a strain to the intermediate shaft..
Going to a Syn blend oil, contrary to some beliefs, will not harm engine ..
So you can keep using your 10-30 vis oil....
 
If you are going that deep into it, check and change out the timing gear set. If it has the factory gear with the plastic teeth, when it does let go it will clog up the pickup screen faster than anything.
 
If you are going that deep into it, check and change out the timing gear set. If it has the factory gear with the plastic teeth, when it does let go it will clog up the pickup screen faster than anything.
Already out. It was frighteningly bad. It was actually the reason I tore it down in the first place.
 
Do you have any indication that the rod bearings or cam bearings are worn? I'd there is no problem I would put stock volume pump and put a lock washer under the undloader cap /spring it will give you a pressure bump ~10psi. A high volume will just be recirculating oil internally adding heat putting a lot of strain on pump driveshaft and trying to empty the oil pan. You really should not need a high volume unless you are revving to 6500-7000.
 
Do you have any indication that the rod bearings or cam bearings are worn? I'd there is no problem I would put stock volume pump and put a lock washer under the undloader cap /spring it will give you a pressure bump ~10psi. A high volume will just be recirculating oil internally adding heat putting a lot of strain on pump driveshaft and trying to empty the oil pan. You really should not need a high volume unless you are revving to 6500-7000.
I've found no evidence of extreme bearing wear. She is remarkably quiet for a 100k motor.
I'm changing the pump drive as well as the bushing just for shits and giggles. .. I'd just kind of feel better knowing that whole line is tight... too, where there were obvious timing problems that traced to the sloppy timing set, may as well sure up the dist drive while I'm in there.
 
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I've found no evidence of extreme bearing wear. She is remarkably quiet for a 100k motor.
I'm changing the pump drive as well as the bearing just for shits and giggles. .. I'd just kind of feel better knowing that whole line is tight... too, where there were obvious timing problems that traced to the sloppy timing set, may as well sure up the dist drive while I'm in there.
I would put stock pump in. My 2 cents.
 
I've found no evidence of extreme bearing wear. She is remarkably quiet for a 100k motor.
I'm changing the pump drive as well as the bearing just for shits and giggles. .. I'd just kind of feel better knowing that whole line is tight... too, where there were obvious timing problems that traced to the sloppy timing set, may as well sure up the dist drive while I'm in there.
That is all fine, but remember, if you change the bushing under the oil pump drive gear, it has to be reamed to size after installation. DO NOT DO THIS JOB WITHOUT THE SERVICE MANUAL.
 
That is all fine, but remember, if you change the bushing under the oil pump drive gear, it has to be reamed to size after installation. DO NOT DO THIS JOB WITHOUT THE SERVICE MANUAL.
Ah ha, right. I have my service manual but perhaps I'll go over the drive and bushing condition a little better before committing to this. Doesn't seem like something I want to get into on an incomplete teardown if I don't have to.
 
If drive gear does not wiggle too much and it is not noticeably worn I would leave it. Can because a real PITA with intake and engine in car.
 
If drive gear does not wiggle too much and it is not noticeably worn I would leave it. Can because a real PITA with intake and engine in car.
I'll give it a once over this weekend. It's funny, I've gotten pretty far into engines while still in the car. .. honed a cylinder and replaced a piston parallel parked in Montreal once! Somehow, these days, anything deeper than I am right now makes me feel a little ill... the back ain't what it used to be.
 
Ah ha, right. I have my service manual but perhaps I'll go over the drive and bushing condition a little better before committing to this. Doesn't seem like something I want to get into on an incomplete teardown if I don't have to.
If the bushing in not worn do not worry about it.
 
If the bushing in not worn do not worry about it.
Ok, that said; would there be an issue with, in the case that the bushing is not worn, changing out the drive? Just wondering in case I see wear in the dist drive slot or something.
 
Ok, that said; would there be an issue with, in the case that the bushing is not worn, changing out the drive? Just wondering in case I see wear in the dist drive slot or something.
Should be fine I doubt it would be too tight.
 
I'll give it a once over this weekend. It's funny, I've gotten pretty far into engines while still in the car. .. honed a cylinder and replaced a piston parallel parked in Montreal once! Somehow, these days, anything deeper than I am right now makes me feel a little ill... the back ain't what it used to be.
That seems to happen to all of us. Just when you get smart enough to fix these cars with your eyes closed, your body say's NO WAY.
 
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