1968 Plymouth fury III BULKHEAD HELP

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I have a 68 ply fury 3 like the title above lol it has a burnt wire on the second connector near the middle should I do the ammeter bypass and rewire the harness upfront how can I fix it and not look bad or cheesey someone on hear said to use some kind of cleaner I can’t seem to find or remember the name in a little jar it’s red I can remember it starts with Diox or something like that

 

[MoPar~Man]

Funny - I'm working on that right now:

I bought some connectors and spades off ebay a few weeks ago. I pulled the bulkhead connector out of the firewall to work on it. It was easy, the car ended at the firewall - no stub frame, no fenders, no engine. BUT - there's practically no spare wire to work with. I pulled out all the wires one at a time, labelled each one, then cut off the connector and crimped / soldered a new one. I inserted them back into the bulkhead connector by going inside the car under the dash, it was easier that way.

Tonight I took the engine bay wire harness inside and I'm pulling out the pins one by one and putting new spade pins on them. Yes, some of mine looked pretty nasty.

 

[volksworld]

normally the pins that fry are the big red one from the battery and the 12 ga black one from the alternator to the ammeter as the spade terminals used aren't large enough to handle the higher amperage of these circuits...add the extra resistance of some corrosion into the mix and you get a meltdown...pull the connectors out of those locations and run a new wire straight through the plug , crimp, solder and shrink wrap to a good spot on the original harness...other spots may just be easier to replace the connectors than to try to clean them depending how bad they are...American Autowire makes a non-insulated terminal crimper that's expensive but actually works, unlike the 3 different look alike Amazon ones that I sent back and the Channellock one that I'm stuck with...Deoxit is the stuff you're thinking of but it doesnt perform miracles...

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

normally the pins that fry are the big red one from the battery and the 12 ga black one from the alternator to the ammeter as the spade terminals used aren't large enough to handle the higher amperage of these circuits...add the extra resistance of some corrosion into the mix and you get a meltdown...pull the connectors out of those locations and run a new wire straight through the plug , crimp, solder and shrink wrap to a good spot on the original harness...other spots may just be easier to replace the connectors than to try to clean them depending how bad they are...American Autowire makes a non-insulated terminal crimper that's expensive but actually works, unlike the 3 different look alike Amazon ones that I sent back and the Channellock one that I'm stuck with...Deoxit is the stuff you're thinking of but it doesnt perform miracles...

Yes the deoxit was what I was thinking of and would you happen to have a pic of connector and location of where to solder

 

[live4theking]

You are able to buy new bulkhead connectors somewhere also, but I cannot find the link now it's in another thread on here. This isn't the link I was thinking of, but it will get it for you https://www.classicindustries.com/product/md2637.html.

Also, the de-oxit is for after you clean the connections up. Put it on when you reassemble - it is a corrosion inhibitor. There are many varieties. This is the one I've used. https://www.amazon.com/Ilsco-OX-8OZ...50-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

You are able to buy new bulkhead connectors somewhere also, but I cannot find the link now it's in another thread on here. This isn't the link I was thinking of, but it will get it for you https://www.classicindustries.com/product/md2637.html.

Also, the de-oxit is for after you clean the connections up. Put it on when you reassemble - it is a corrosion inhibitor. There are many varieties. This is the one I've used. https://www.amazon.com/Ilsco-OX-8OZ-Oxide-Inhibitor-Bottle/dp/B008KM6AQ8/ref=sr_1_50_sspa?crid=1V1IIOV32R99B&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WWYV76T4o0F4opwdowjH06D3KM4SDbuc4Fa7VhPOxm_0pylVIutctMrw8lbjV2N6jBAtkHnKFdAgUrQASXLShs0AYtr_lf-8rOnQiVBtRHsgNsXMyX1nclX0IDh45xfTzDcqF6aTLDOnzeyZFvgEG02_E02COdCE5kWDUgaWSQ-AFyLeeyHGDS4qJTp8CcVcjNwxtVpKA2CDvgnh9UKDL01vUV7WESDKj1r0IRLpZwQIW2VyyOhv_cARbOgo4Q6LqMwa2U8d8Sq4I1ZTJtv7QeWlLfbNazqnGcKqGPdyT1g.p_xcgEKa-4s7vkP59cDZ1xEg1ZaIPO8vuxhHYduQSOU&dib_tag=se&keywords=deoxit&qid=1722615270&sprefix=deoxit,aps,201&sr=8-50-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1

What does clean them the best cleaner or home remedies for cleaning

 

[MoPar~Man]

I don't think there's an easy answer here. To remove the tarnish on the visible part of the spade connectors in the plugs, probably some sort of acid combined with a specially-crafted brush. That's if you're not going to pop the spades out of the sockets. If you don't do that, you won't see the condition of the wire crimped to the spades:

That last one was a bit of a temporary creative repair, yea that's one of the big wires. Lots of oxidation. For me, much easier to just cut them off and put on new spades. The above are from the 2 lower plugs, the top one being for the windshield wiper which I've left for now. After crimping I also soldered over the crimps.

For the record, I was not experiencing any sort of electrical problems - everything was working. I just replaced them because it really didn't take long and I wanted no reliability issues going forward. I'm not intending to do the alternator bypass, at least not in the short term (this year).