1970 300 wont start

[racingse]

Suddenly the car wont start. There is no power to the starter when i turn the key, no lights for alternator or oil pressure but interior and head lights is ok. All the fuses are ok but there is only power in the left row of fuses. Anyody have any idea of whats wrong?

 

[commando1]

fusible link

 

[70NPORT]

That would be my guess too, but when my fusible link melted nothing at all work, every system was dead...even the lights.

 

[racingse]

fusible link

I have power after the fusible link in the engine compartment

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Bulkhead connector

 

[70NPORT]

Ya, make sure the BH connector is secure (not loose) and/or has not burnt areas. Sometimes corrosion gets started in there a wreaks havoc with the connections.

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

Just like anything start with simple first. To me I would make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Watch or have someone watch the headlights to see if they dim when the key is in the crank position. After you do these things then try the bulkhead connections and or starter connections.

 

[racingse]

Checked everthing you suggested, the headlights dont dim. Separated the bulkhead connectors looks good.

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

Checked everthing you suggested, the headlights dont dim. Separated the bulkhead connectors looks good.[/QUOT]

Now you will need a friend to crank the key to start position when needed. Use a test light to see if you are getting juice when cranking to the starter. If you are not work your way up along that cable where it joins another wire or if it looks in bad shape. If still no juice to the fusable link before and after follow the other power wires to the firewall. If you have juice in all critical wires to start the car under the hood then move to the inside of the car. Test the wires from the bulkhead to the steering column ignition switch and the fusebox. All the while doing this inside and out check for burned or melted wires and corossion. Even if you need to hire a mechanice you may be saving money in his time by telling him what you already checked.

 

[Fratzog]

Had a similar problem with the Polara recently. It was the coil.

 

[racingse]

Found the problem. It was the connection to the stearing column. Thanks

 

[Wollfen]

I wonder what caused that short? Was the wire worn through anywhere along it?

 

[70NPORT]

I had my steering wheel apart and the ignition/turn signal switches disconnected and pulled out just last weekend.That is a rather nasty signal there's a problem somewhere, a short circuit maybe...could just be something simple and then maybe not. Got a ohmmeter or 12v test light? I keep a mounted fire extinguisher in my car just to be on the safe side.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

It is one wire so it wasn't a short. It may have been overheated much like the common problem with the bulkhead connector. I had this same problem on a 73 Barracuda I had. Just clip the wires at the connector and put a bullet connector on.

 

[70NPORT]

How does/would it overheat?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

How does/would it overheat?

ALL the power to the car runs through that wire that isn't pre ignition.

 

[70NPORT]

If such is the case, than racingse you may want to look in to this (typically not a good idea to ignore burnt wiring and/or connectors)...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 

[MrMoparCHP]

If such is the case, than racingse you may want to look in to this (typically not a good idea to ignore burnt wiring and/or connectors)...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

I have been seeing this for years and do not see how it fixes anything. I can see how bypassing the bulkhead connector is a good thing but at the expense of adding a but splice that probably worse connection than before. I doubt most people have the proper tools to make a crimp terminal better than it was before, the only way would be to solider it.

The steering column connector is still needed if you ever want to pull the column. Yes the amp gauge have been known to cause problems but is not the cause of burnt connectors. Burnt connectors are generally caused by overloading or loose connections.

Alan

 

[70NPORT]

Makes perfect sense to me to make the change (bypass the ammeter gauge) rather than risk burning up wiring or the car for that matter...the problem is a well known deficiency and the "mad" solution is a well known fix to that deficiency. His burnt connector maybe a precursor to something worse. Either way I wouldn't let it go and ignore it once able to get the car started again.