1971 Imperial HELP!

[ma_mopar]

Need some help/advice on the '71 Imperial.

It won't stay running. You turn the key and it catches for a split second but stops when you let go of the key.

Trhe ballast resistor was replaced thinking that might be the issue but no dice.

This issue sorta just happened out of the blue. I had it running for about 10 minutes one evening after sitting for several days. Then it just sputtered and quit. Went to restart it and it did the above act. Came back a few days later and it started but ran real rough like. My dad came back later that week and took it around the block and it died. He managed to get it started again and parked it. Now it's refusing to start.

Any help would greatly be appreciated. It ran fine before any of this happened for what its worth. Thanks.

 

[barnfind]

Id start with basics, spark, fuel, compression

 

[69monaco]

Coil......?

 

[75LandYacht]

The Pickup cool within the distributor **** the bed on me, but that only happened once it was at running temp, then BAM!!!! stopped running, once it cooled down, it would start and run fine, until it got hot again. Then after a while of intermittent kills, it stopped running altogether and would not start.. Instead of replacing the pick up coil I replace the entire distributor with a NAPA reman and then fix the problem. Just my 2cents.

 

[rags]

mouse ate your coil wire.

 

[saylor]

^^

 

[Big_John]

Do you still have the point ignition? Or have you updated to the electronic?

 

[CBODY67]

The electrical "switch" for the ignition should be at the lower section of the steering column, under the dash. There is a rod which moves when the lock cyl (by the steering wheel) turns. There should be one larger-gauge wire that is in that plug-in. On my '67 Chrysler, it's red, might be the same on the later models. This is the feed wire for the ignition switch. It should go directly to the fuseblock/bulkhead connector. Check that connector on BOTH sides of the fuseblock, on the inside of the car and also on the underhood side of things. There might be some accumulation on the terminals from time, age, temperature cycles, etc.

When you try to restart, does it spin normally? Or "nothing"? This might sound flaky, but take the battery cable terminals off of the battery and clean the terminal posts and the cable ends. There can be a thin layer of corrosion which can build-up between the two. It might not look like much, but it can be electrically significant, from my experiences.

IF you've put a Chrysler electronic ignition conversion kit on the vehicle, do NOT use the supplied voltage regulator! As the Direct Connection race manual notes, that regulator keeps the electric system at 14 volts all of the time, which affects longevity of ALL electrical components, including light bulbs. IF there are any bad connections, you'll find them too, as I did on my '67 Newport one night. I turned a corner and the car died. Nothing on the ignition, but the lights would still work. I found where a former owner had a twisted-wire connection, covered in gum wrapper paper, in the feed line to the ignition switch. It had kapured. Replaced it with a new section of wire, with OEM wire connectors, and problem solved. Plus, I put the original voltage regulator back in and things worked just fine.

Might not be easy, but hopefully it can be. You'll probably need to download a wiring schematic to fully trace things out. Plus a digital voltage/resistance meter.

Keep us posted on your progress.
CBODY67

 

[traintech55]

Sounds like you have a break in the ignition "Run" circuit going to the ballast resistor. Turn the key to the run position and check for voltage on the blue wire going to the resistor. If dead, check the ignition switch, and wire from the switch to the resistor.

 

[boltupal]

Need some help/advice on the '71 Imperial.

It won't stay running. You turn the key and it catches for a split second but stops when you let go of the key.

Trhe ballast resistor was replaced thinking that might be the issue but no dice.

This issue sorta just happened out of the blue. I had it running for about 10 minutes one evening after sitting for several days. Then it just sputtered and quit. Went to restart it and it did the above act. Came back a few days later and it started but ran real rough like. My dad came back later that week and took it around the block and it died. He managed to get it started again and parked it. Now it's refusing to start.

Any help would greatly be appreciated. It ran fine before any of this happened for what its worth. Thanks.

 

[boltupal]

Need some help/advice on the '71 Imperial.

It won't stay running. You turn the key and it catches for a split second but stops when you let go of the key.

Trhe ballast resistor was replaced thinking that might be the issue but no dice.

This issue sorta just happened out of the blue. I had it running for about 10 minutes one evening after sitting for several days. Then it just sputtered and quit. Went to restart it and it did the above act. Came back a few days later and it started but ran real rough like. My dad came back later that week and took it around the block and it died. He managed to get it started again and parked it. Now it's refusing to start.

Any help would greatly be appreciated. It ran fine before any of this happened for what its worth. Thanks.

If you are using points. Keep in mind your car starts on 12 volts , but runs on 6 . The resistor drops the voltage to six volts. When starting the points get extra juice via the starter.

 

[traintech55]

If you are using points. Keep in mind your car starts on 12 volts , but runs on 6 . The resistor drops the voltage to six volts. When starting the points get extra juice via the starter.

It does not get voltage from the starter, it gets 12 volts from the "IGN 2" feed on the switch.

 

[ma_mopar]

Thanks everyone.

The car is still on points. Distributor has been replaced from original to a new one one. Forgot exactly from where.

Will try the suggestions and will let everyone know what happens.