For Sale 1972 Imperial Coupe, Manual A/C ebay

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SeaFuse

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I thought all 69-73 Imperials were exclusive with Auto-Temp. This one has the manual system.

1972 Chrysler Imperial | eBay


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$205 "reserve not met"

I wonder where the reserve is set?

No matter, I won't touch a "bill of sale" car again... too much hassle even if you can get it titled.
 
I like it and I'm glad it's very far away...
 
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Is that moisture stains I can see on the hood lining and carpet?
Love the long hood on the '72-'73.
 
$205 "reserve not met"

I wonder where the reserve is set?

No matter, I won't touch a "bill of sale" car again... too much hassle even if you can get it titled.
How hard/expensive is it to get a title for a car in CA?
 
How hard/expensive is it to get a title for a car in CA?
Don't know, and don't care... too many IDIOTS who try to avoid $50 in sales tax or are buying/selling too many cars (curbstoning)... It's hard enough to deal with states that won't issue titles... It would take a very, very special car to get me involved in an open/lost title again.
 
Here is what no one should do!

Buy rustbucket for scrap value. Remove VIN. Reinstall.
 
From what I've read it looks like from 1973 to 1975 that the Airtemp II was standard equipment on the Imperials.

Not so, it has been option in each of those years. It seems that most well-heeled buyers of the luxury brand just opted for all the goodies when they bought an Imperial, including Auto Temp.
 
Not so, it has been option in each of those years. It seems that most well-heeled buyers of the luxury brand just opted for all the goodies when they bought an Imperial, including Auto Temp.
Sorry, from 73-75 the factory literature does not bear that out.
Below are the factory dealer data book info from 72-75.
72 clearly shows base A/C was standard and the for 73 you could have Autotemp or Dual Auto temp. 74-75 Shows Autotemp standard and no Extra cost availability (ie that was it).
72chr02b.jpg
73-Imperial_0003.jpg
74_Imperial_0011.jpg
75_Imperial_0011.jpg
 
If it wasn't in California and the ignition lock wasn't broken, I'd be more of a player possibly.
 
Sorry, from 73-75 the factory literature does not bear that out.
Below are the factory dealer data book info from 72-75.
72 clearly shows base A/C was standard and the for 73 you could have Autotemp or Dual Auto temp. 74-75 Shows Autotemp standard and no Extra cost availability (ie that was it).
View attachment 125375 View attachment 125376 View attachment 125377 View attachment 125378

Thank you for the correction (my apologies to workerbee too). I had looked at all the brochures 1969-72 and found auto temp optional, but I couldn't find my 73 brochure and assumed it would be the same for them, but apparently not. Regarding the 74-75 models, I have a friend with a 1975 Imperial with non auto temp a/c in it he told me, so I assumed auto controls were optional in those too. But I have never owned a formal since they are not my favorites, so I might be incorrect on those as well but how does that explain my friend's car not being auto temp? But this discussion is starting to clarify a lingering question many of us have had.
 
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If it wasn't in California and the ignition lock wasn't broken, I'd be more of a player possibly.

Those tilt columns are a bear to work on, with plastic pieces that disintegrate when you just try to take them apart, especially on dry California cars. They were made by Saginaw (GM) so what else would you expect? That reality gave me second thoughts as well.

Plus the other negative of California cars that few talk about is that most owners out here never experience temperatures significantly below freezing and most of the time neglect changing out the antifreeze or just add water with no additional antifreeze. This turns the insides of the blocks into a rusty mess that most chemicals these days that are legal will not remove so well. And that leads to leaking "freeze" or "core" plugs to deal with and it is likely wise to change the head gaskets too, at least. A couple of the core plugs on that Imperial are all but impossible to remove and reinstall in the car since it has the subframe within the stubframe that cradles the engine and that makes access to those core plugs so bad, and the only real reliable solution is to remove the engine and heads to deal with all of this. When I called the guy in this listing with some questions about this car, he said he didn't think this car even had any coolant in the radiator at least, so who knows after sitting 27 years what is going on? But we don't have body rust to deal with as much as back East.

The seller also couldn't explain why the headliner looked stained - water, rodents or what? And the dashpad is sunburned, so even spraying it with a correct color vinyl spray won't fix it because the sun takes the grain out of the vinyl in those areas, and it still shows anyway. Then the whole fuel system needs to be changed out probably after 27 years, and maybe the brakes will need attention too. So Stan is correct, expect to do a lot of refurbishing on the car. But if you are in such a purchase for the long haul, then you have a good rust free body with a pretty nice interior to begin with and hopefully a good engine with some maintenance. If you think you will buy it and get it running and then turn it, you will likely lose money on this one depending on the final bid amount.

This car is originally tawny gold, which is my least favorite color on these cars, and it came with a white vinyl top when looking at the body code plate he is showing, and the gold interior. In visualizing such a stark contrast in top color/body color and then a gold interior, the image in my mind is an Imperial that doesn't look so glamorous.

And if you plan on picking it up cheap, he said he had 14 callers already when I called about the car (one of them from Australia - maybe crv), so at least it won't likely be a parts car! And obtaining a title based on a bill of sale for the car is not impossible out here, but you have to have the vehicle checked to make sure it isn't "on record" (if it is then you have to have the last titled owner get a duplicate title - you might need a lot of luck on that since this is an estate car with no title apparently) and if it was not on non-operation status for the last 27 years, then you will have to pay 3 years of back registration fees if you can get a duplicate title - probably around $300 total for these extra fees) and if it isn't on record then you have to have it inspected by the DMV (flatbed it there most likely if necessary) or if you can somehow find an independent vehicle verifier, they could go to the seller's door and do the inspection if he will cooperate in that endeavor. In this latter case, you would have to write up a statement of facts to explain all of what has happened to the car in the past that you know about, and if your statement is "credible" to the state worker reading it over, then you might get a title. Bottom line, this would significantly involve the seller, in either case, and from what I learned in talking with him, he works 7 days a week and barely has any time to even answer the calls he is getting (and said he didn't have time to look at the car again before the auction ends to answer some of my other questions to which he didn't have answers). This is probably why he is doing a bill of sale transaction. Cantflip is correct that dealing with bill of sale transactions can be challenging.
 
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Those tilt columns are a bear to work on, with plastic pieces that disintegrate when you just try to take them apart, especially on dry California cars. They were made by Saginaw (GM) so what else would you expect? That reality gave me second thoughts as well.

Plus the other negative of California cars that few talk about is that most owners out here never experience temperatures significantly below freezing and most of the time neglect changing out the antifreeze or just add water with no additional antifreeze. This turns the insides of the blocks into a rusty mess that most chemicals these days that are legal will not remove so well. And that leads to leaking "freeze" or "core" plugs to deal with and it is likely wise to change the head gaskets too, at least. A couple of the core plugs on that Imperial are all but impossible to remove and reinstall in the car since it has the subframe within the stubframe that cradles the engine and that makes access to those core plugs so bad, and the only real reliable solution is to remove the engine and heads to deal with all of this. When I called the guy in this listing with some questions about this car, he said he didn't think this car even had any coolant in the radiator at least, so who knows after sitting 27 years what is going on? But we don't have body rust to deal with as much as back East.

The seller also couldn't explain why the headliner looked stained - water, rodents or what? And the dashpad is sunburned, so even spraying it with a correct color vinyl spray won't fix it because the sun takes the grain out of the vinyl in those areas, and it still shows anyway. Then the whole fuel system needs to be changed out probably after 27 years, and maybe the brakes will need attention too. So Stan is correct, expect to do a lot of refurbishing on the car. But if you are in such a purchase for the long haul, then you have a good rust free body with a pretty nice interior to begin with and hopefully a good engine with some maintenance. If you think you will buy it and get it running and then turn it, you will likely lose money on this one depending on the final bid amount.

This car is originally tawny gold, which is my least favorite color on these cars, and it came with a white vinyl top when looking at the body code plate he is showing, and the gold interior. In visualizing such a stark contrast in top color/body color and then a gold interior, the image in my mind is an Imperial that doesn't look so glamorous.

And if you plan on picking it up cheap, he said he had 14 callers already when I called about the car (one of them from Australia - maybe crv), so at least it won't likely be a parts car! And obtaining a title based on a bill of sale for the car is not impossible out here, but you have to have the vehicle checked to make sure it isn't "on record" (if it is then you have to have the last titled owner get a duplicate title - you might need a lot of luck on that since this is an estate car with no title apparently) and if it was not on non-operation status for the last 27 years, then you will have to pay 3 years of back registration fees if you can get a duplicate title - probably around $300 total for these extra fees) and if it isn't on record then you have to have it inspected by the DMV (flatbed it there most likely if necessary) or if you can somehow find an independent vehicle verifier, they could go to the seller's door and do the inspection if he will cooperate in that endeavor. In this latter case, you would have to write up a statement of facts to explain all of what has happened to the car in the past that you know about, and if your statement is "credible" to the state worker reading it over, then you might get a title. Bottom line, this would significantly involve the seller, in either case, and from what I learned in talking with him, he works 7 days a week and barely has any time to even answer the calls he is getting (and said he didn't have time to look at the car again before the auction ends to answer some of my other questions to which he didn't have answers). This is probably why he is doing a bill of sale transaction. Cantflip is correct that dealing with bill of sale transactions can be challenging.

Non titled vehicles past a certain age don't scare me away. It's just time consuming at the highway patrol station.

My dad currently has two Chryslers that were lifelong California cars. So might have get working on that coolant change.

I'd buy it to fix it up a bit and then who knows after that. Maybe it'll go to a decent home.
 
Non titled vehicles past a certain age don't scare me away. It's just time consuming at the highway patrol station.

My dad currently has two Chryslers that were lifelong California cars. So might have get working on that coolant change.

I'd buy it to fix it up a bit and then who knows after that. Maybe it'll go to a decent home.

Where do you live?
 
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