440 Tune-up specs

[73Coupe]

As I yet don't have a shop manual, and the sticker in the engine compartment is well worn and illegible, was wondering if anybody had tune-up specs for a standard 440 handy? 73 NY'er.

I've got a rough idle - rebuilt the TQ carb, replaced the plugs, and now runs better. Next it's onto the timing, etc...

Haven't done a compression test yet.

Thanks,

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Do you have a vacuum guages, yes just adjust carburetor to highest vacuum/smoothest idlethen play with timing until vacuum drops off, as long as your initial doesn't go over about 14° btdc and car drives good, done.
No then get a FSM.

 

[73Coupe]

Got myself a new vacuum gauge last week and finally had time last night to hook it up along with a tach and timing light. Adjusted the idle screws then did the timing. Set it at 10 degrees, and got about 21" on the vacuum gauge. I went a couple more degrees advance and got slightly higher vacuum, but dropped it back to 10 degrees to road test. Still getting a little miss at idle, and it hesitates slightly with initial acceleration. But it runs A LOT better now, finally.
Maybe I'll advance it just a tad more and see what it does.

 

[stubs300]

Did you replace the Plug wires?

 

[73Coupe]

Negative. They look ok; not sure if they could be the culprit or not...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Advancing and higher vacuum will only make it better, the top initial should be held to no more than 14-15 degrees +20-22 mechanical = 35-37 degrees total about right for a big block, especially a 73 low compression can use timing, like advancing at high altitude

 

[Fratzog]

Advancing and higher vacuum will only make it better, the top initial should be held to no more than 14-15 degrees +20-22 mechanical = 35-37 degrees total about right for a big block, especially a 73 low compression can use timing, like advancing at high altitude

I'm taking notes. Thanks.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Rule of thumb less cylinder pressure = less molecules of oxygen and fuel need to light it earlier. Combustion chamber shapes, plug location play into this also but general idea, this is why vacuum advance adds more when vacuum is high in venturis, ported spark advance.

 

[73Coupe]

Rule of thumb less cylinder pressure = less molecules of oxygen and fuel need to light it earlier. Combustion chamber shapes, plug location play into this also but general idea, this is why vacuum advance adds more when vacuum is high in venturis, ported spark advance.

Thanks! I forgot to note in my earlier post I rebuilt the distributor over the weekend too. I found the vacuum advance to be defective on the dizzy in the car. So when I pulled it to install the new advance unit, I found the dizzy to be FUBAR. Interesting to note it had a "REMAN" stamp on it, then I remembered I had a spare dizzy with the lot of spare parts I received with the purchase of the car. The rebuilt dizzy came from "CARDONE" via O'Kragens (I found the receipt from the prev owner).
In short, the only thing wrong with the OEM dizzy was the reluctor and pickup - they had struck each other. Everything else was perfect, just needed cleaning.
In contrast, the "rebuilt" dizzy had OK magnetic pickup parts, but the bearings were loose and it appeared as if they sandblasted it while assembled. Plus the vac advance was a bust. Must have had a team of monkeys working that day (it's probably all days).
So got the OEM dizzy all cleaned up and put on the reluctor and pickup on from the Kragen unit. I couldn't get a consistent gap around the revolution of the shaft (.011 - .008"), plus it was tapered a bit too, so I have ordered a new set.

On the subject of compression....in '73 did they lower it? Modified heads?
Edit with pics: left is remanufactured dizzy, right is OEM

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Lowered in 72 combo of pistons lower in bore and chamber volume increased.

 

[68plymouth383]

I've had a bad rash of cardone reman distributor's last about a year. The pickups fail, the vacuum canisters are bad........ Ect.