65 dodge polara wagon questions

whitetrash

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Been tooling around in. My 65 dodge polara wagon for a while and am wondering about upgrading to a dual master cylinder for better braking and also some suspension enhancements wouldn't hurt either. Any companies out there that cater to us C-body guys or am I stuck with cranked down torsion bars and lowering blocks?

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Been tooling around in. My 65 dodge polara wagon for a while and am wondering about upgrading to a dual master cylinder for better braking and also some suspension enhancements wouldn't hurt either. Any companies out there that cater to us C-body guys or am I stuck with cranked down torsion bars and lowering blocks?

Welcome, clean looking wagon.

First the brakes. A dual master cylinder is itself a safety device... and a good idea for upgrade. With a single master, its all or nothing... a big leak anywhere in the system defeats all 4 wheels braking. With a dual master, the system is put into halves... your car would be front/rear. Now if a line gives out, you still have half the wheels braking. I would bet on a cruiser like yours the factory brakes are good enough if they are well maintained. There are others here who have done upgraded brakes and could share their results with you if that is what you want.

As far as suspension is concerned, I wouldn't say your "stuck". The way you have lowered your car is very easily reversed and doesn't hurt it's future use/repairs. In its day, Chrysler's torsion bar suspension was as good or better than the competition and can easily be made to perform in a way that would be acceptable for a street car today. When you run it lowered, you lose some of that. It is very common for lowered cars to have harsher ride and quirky handling because the steering and suspension geometry is changed away from factory settings.

I would advise that you stick to "bolt on" suspension changes, once you leave factory settings you are re-engineering the system and it more trial and error than you might believe... even aftermarket systems do not get engineered as well as people think. The biggest thing I think would help is a thorough inspection and replacement of any lose or worn steering and suspension components, including bushings which are likely original. If its all tight and right and your still not happy, I would consider going back to stock height and get it where you like it before lowering. That way you know how much lowering affected the car, and while at stock height you have specs to follow.

There are lots of folks here who could help you along the way. Take it one step at a time, and give pictures with technical questions whenever possible.
 
Thanks cantflip. Definitely want a dual master cylinder for the safety aspect. What other cars offered this option? Wanting to do this mod myself if possible just can't figure out which master cylinder would bolt up. I'm not unhappy with my suspension it actually rides decent I was asking more along the lines of bigger away bars and newer bushings to kinda tighten things up. I do hate the bias ply tires that are on it at the moment. I think once I put some radials on it a lot of my "wandering"issues will disappear. It is a really nice mostly original wagon with very little rust (rear quarters) underneath it's as clean as I could ask for. Glad I finally found a forum to help with some questions.
 
O.K Whitetrash. Letz narrow it down ah bit and see what we can come up with. Drum/Drum what size front, what size rear? Disc/ Drum same question. If your going to a dual from a single M/C/ you will need a Proportioning Valve and some new lines. All doable but we need some answers. Front drums 11X2, 11X2 1/2, or 11X3? same question for the rears. I'm lookin' at my Bendix Brake Applications Master Manual 1960 to 1979. Letz get the kidz off the street! What is your goal, Jer
 
Master Cylnder: Install a 67 one.
Handing: Rebuild the front end, HD torsion bars and leaf springs, and good HD shocks all around.
We know this works splendidly.
 
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