65 Fury brake question

[mopar Joe 65]

I have drum brakes on my car with a single pot master cylinder, if i replace it with a dual MC do i have to replace the proportioning valve or is the stock one on it ok? Also can i use the mc push rod from the single pot on the new dual mc ? Any help is appreciated.

 

[live4theking]

You'll have to change the block for sure, but I don't know about the push rod.

 

[mopar Joe 65]

Thanks for the info, the MC i was thinking about using is a dual from jegs so how do i know what block to use ?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Technically it's not a proportioning valve as it only directs the fluid, nothing else. It's properly known as a metering block.

I applaud you for going dual circuit.

Is your car power or manual brakes?

If it's manual brakes the pushrod (which should be part of the pedal assembly and not the master) should be ok. Same for power brakes. The booster has integral pushrods built in - one out the back that connects to the pedal assembly, and a pushrod out the front of the booster to actuate the master.

The pushrods as they contact the master should have adjustibility at the master cylinder end. Rule of thumb is to adjust the pushrod so that as you're bolting it down that the pushrod wants to keep the master about 1/16th of an inch off the surface. This adds the right amount of preload required to the system. Any more and you'll have dragging brakes. Any less and the brakes won't engage properly at the beginning.

 

[mopar Joe 65]

Thanks Ross, my brakes are manual drums. I decieded i dont want to go to disc brakes yet so i replaced everything new and the MC i got from cardone leaks out of the bottom plug i tried to seal it and torqued the **** out of it and it still leaks so i think iam going to throw it in the river and buy a duel mc.

 

[mopar Joe 65]

The one iam looking at is this one from Jegs.

 

[twostick]

You can save about $100 by going to Advance or Autozone and get a stock reman one for a 67 or newer drum brake Fury and getting a chrome lid for it if it has to be shiny.

Kevin

 

[mopar Joe 65]

Thanks i will check it out.

 

[Yatzee]

The one iam looking at is this one from Jegs.View attachment 136928

I don't think you should be buying that one until you have some more info on it, like bore size. Very critical. Even SSBC's web site doesn't have the information. Strange isn't it?

Mopar Master Cylinder with Billet Aluminum Cover - A2931

 

[Big_John]

Just say no to billet.

 

[mopar Joe 65]

I found one on autozone that looks like it would work but it says does not fit your car ?

 

[saylor]

you need a DRUM m/c with the same diameter bore as what you took off, if possible. those looks like disc m/c ^^.

with a single pot system, you need to split it front / back and plumb it accordingly to move to a dual m/c.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[saylor]

and is it power or manual drum brakes

1967-1970 Plymouth Fury Brake Master Cylinder - A1 Cardone 13-1323M - - PartsGeek.com

 

[mopar Joe 65]

Thanks for the link that looks like what i want. I still dont know what part number for splitter block ?

 

[65sporty]

Just say no to billet.

I thought the same thing, it's a little too much bling.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Metering block:

62 63 64 Mopar A B C Body Dual Master Brake Distribution Brass Tee Block Valve

Even though it says 62 - 64 it will work fine.

 

[mr. fix it]

Hi Joe.
I did the same with my 66 Polara a few years ago.
If you are staying with drums all around then I suggest the following.
I went the 1967 route and hunted down a 67 metering block.
This way it is already set and you don't need to play with an aftermarket valve
It's important to get a Drum/Drum M/C making sure that you run the rear reseviour to the front brakes and the front reseviour to the rear brakes into the metering valve(distribution Block)

 

[Yatzee]

I have drum brakes on my car with a single pot master cylinder, if i replace it with a dual MC do i have to replace the proportioning valve or is the stock one on it ok? Also can i use the mc push rod from the single pot on the new dual mc ? Any help is appreciated.

I am not sure how you're plumbing this dual master in, but you do not need a metering block. After removing the front circuit line from the existing distribution tee, buy a brake plug (3/16 gotten anywhere) and insert it where the front brake line was removed. Make sure the line to this tee goes to the front tap on the master because the line you leave in tact should go to the rear brakes. Buy a brake tee (3/16 gotten anywhere and plumb the rear bowl into this tee. Run your front left and right lines out of the other two tappings on this tee. You can rotate the front tee anyway you want to accommodate your front brake lines. Voila, done.

 

[mr. fix it]

I have to disagree with your comment Yatzee. - sorry...

I did that exact thing as you recommend and it works for normal light braking but I got into a sudden stop moment and nearly ended up in the ditch due to rear wheel lock up.
(try it with yours to see what I am talking about if you did the conversion the same way you talk about here.)

I never had a great pedal feel while braking either as I have to apply much more pressure to stop the car.
Once I sourced the stock 67 D/B (drum/Drum) I was good to go.
The disc/drum DB is different as well.
this is why most everyone goes with an aftermarket metering valve.. much easier to source..

!967 is the earliest Dual MC setup that is available if going with that stock look since Mopar didn't offer dual M/C in 65 or 66.
From my research this is what i know to be true.
If there is information out there indicating otherwise I will correct this comment.

The only other way to avoid using a Distribution Block is to change the size diameter of the rear wheel cylinders to lessen the pressure applied to the rear wheels

But now having said all this...
Mopar Joe 65 doesn't tell us all the story.
Sure he has a single manual pot drum/drum brake M/C setup but what size are his drums and shoes?
Wheel cylinder diameter sizes are on the front or back?

All of the above is a determining factor on what will bolt in with the least amount of investment giving him the dual system he is looking for.

 

[mopar Joe 65]

Thanks for all your input guys, what i deceided to do is order a duel m/c for a 67 with drum brakes my brakes are 11x 2 3/4 on the front and 11 x 2 on the rear. I have a picture i will post of my splitter block, iam going to plug the outlet to the rear brakes and put a union on that line to extend it to the m/c. Now iam wondering about my main line to the splitter is 1/4 inch and all the brake lines are 3 /16 should i replace the big one with a 3 /16 or leave it ? Thanks for any help.