'65 Fury - onto the door weatherstripping, have a few questions

[barsteel]

Hello!

Next step on my '65 Fury is installing the new door weatherstripping.

I was looking at the weatherstripping today, and saw that there are small white plastic studs for mounting in the door. Problem is, the only holes in the door for those studs are on the bottom of the door. There are no holes on the vertical surfaces (see pic).

Is that normal? Do I just cut off the white plastic studs and glue the weatherstripping to the door, or ?.

Also, does the weatherstripping hug the contour in the door (see pic)?

If anyone could help me out with a pic or two of the exact placement of the weatherstripping, I would appreciate it.

So much fun reassembling a car you didn't disassemble...

Chris

 

[Yatzee]

Hello!

Next step on my '65 Fury is installing the new door weatherstripping.

I was looking at the weatherstripping today, and saw that there are small white plastic studs for mounting in the door. Problem is, the only holes in the door for those studs are on the bottom of the door. There are no holes on the vertical surfaces (see pic).

Is that normal? Do I just cut off the white plastic studs and glue the weatherstripping to the door, or ?.

Also, does the weatherstripping hug the contour in the door (see pic)?

If anyone could help me out with a pic or two of the exact placement of the weatherstripping, I would appreciate it.

So much fun reassembling a car you didn't disassemble...

Chris

 

[Yatzee]

Using the upper door rubber as in "Fury3.jpg" that you posted, use this as the setting position on the door surface for the rest of the installation. You may find that the holes on the bottom of the door and the plastic pegs don't line up propery allowing the bottom of the weather strip to droop. This is a common problem with cheap reproduction strips and if you have a section of the old strip, check the shape and size closely to the new stuff. If it's not exactly the same throw the new stuff in the trash - it'll be mounted but never work. Your doors won't close properly either. Only use guaranteed exact reproduction. I attach the bottom first and work upwards on the front and back of the door to verify the length and fit. The plastic pins for the bottom of the door can be worked out of their hole so don't just cut them off. Without the pins installed work from the front upper section of the door down and around to the rear. If the strip is too long cutting and bonding should be done at the rear upper area. Do not attach with any kind of contact cement ( it won't allow for slight movement as it bonds instantly even if the stripping is not straight ) rather use body shop quality silicon which will probably only come in black and once in place temporarily secure with 3M high tack masking tape until cured. Silicon has tremendous adhesive properties and The Right Stuff is about as good as it comes. Lightly smear the silicon evenly on the mounting surface of the stripping with your finger and let sit a couple of minutes before attaching. You won't need a lot if both mating surfaces are perfectly clean. Clean the metal contact point with lighter fluid not lacquer thinner or varsol. One will soften or remove paint, the other leaves an oily residue. Let stand with the doors open over night. As for the upper, if you have a hard top, buy the best stripping you can find and verify it's fit. The upper locks into a body channel and does not require adhesive - it literally tucks in tightly. If the upper cross section is not identicle or has the same compression properties you'll have a ***** of a time with the windows not closing or sealing properly. You'll end up tilting the doors in or out, the glass channel runs in or out and a regular nightmare will ensue. this isn't a job you do very often so it would be best not to scrimp in quality to save a few bucks.

 

[barsteel]

Using the upper door rubber as in "Fury3.jpg" that you posted, use this as the setting position on the door surface for the rest of the installation. You may find that the holes on the bottom of the door and the plastic pegs don't line up propery allowing the bottom of the weather strip to droop. This is a common problem with cheap reproduction strips and if you have a section of the old strip, check the shape and size closely to the new stuff. If it's not exactly the same throw the new stuff in the trash - it'll be mounted but never work. Your doors won't close properly either. Only use guaranteed exact reproduction. I attach the bottom first and work upwards on the front and back of the door to verify the length and fit. The plastic pins for the bottom of the door can be worked out of their hole so don't just cut them off. Without the pins installed work from the front upper section of the door down and around to the rear. If the strip is too long cutting and bonding should be done at the rear upper area. Do not attach with any kind of contact cement ( it won't allow for slight movement as it bonds instantly even if the stripping is not straight ) rather use body shop quality silicon which will probably only come in black and once in place temporarily secure with 3M high tack masking tape until cured. Silicon has tremendous adhesive properties and The Right Stuff is about as good as it comes. Lightly smear the silicon evenly on the mounting surface of the stripping with your finger and let sit a couple of minutes before attaching. You won't need a lot if both mating surfaces are perfectly clean. Clean the metal contact point with lighter fluid not lacquer thinner or varsol. One will soften or remove paint, the other leaves an oily residue. Let stand with the doors open over night. As for the upper, if you have a hard top, buy the best stripping you can find and verify it's fit. The upper locks into a body channel and does not require adhesive - it literally tucks in tightly. If the upper cross section is not identicle or has the same compression properties you'll have a ***** of a time with the windows not closing or sealing properly. You'll end up tilting the doors in or out, the glass channel runs in or out and a regular nightmare will ensue. this isn't a job you do very often so it would be best not to scrimp in quality to save a few bucks.

Thank you for the reply.

Is it normal for a door NOT to have holes for the plastic studs on the front and back mounting surface? I have them along the bottom, but nothing on either the front or back vertical surface, which would lead me to believe that I have to glue it in place, please correct me if I'm wrong. I felt along and visually checked the back side of each vertical surface, and it does not appear as if there were any holes filled or welded shut.

Thanks...

Chris

 

[65Fury440]

You are correct, there are no holes in the front or back.The vendor I bought mine from told me the reason the plastic clips were there, were for a different model that uses the same strip. He said use a needle nose to remove the plastic clips, and use trim adhesive. Just start from the front flange and work your way around.

 

[Duncan]

I need to replace the weatherstripping on my 68 Fury. Now that some of you have had the experience of buying stripping for your cars do you have a place you would recommend for buying it? I am assuming the 'generic' weatherstripping you see on ebay doesn't work and I need to buy stripping made for my car, correct?

 

[Yatzee]

This is where I got mine. It's exactly like OE in every way including compression, cross section, fit and looks. It has what appears to be a graphite-like coating that the glass glides on when closing instead of binding and bunching the surface. Pricey? A bit but you get what you pay for these days and let's face it, you'll probably never change it again in your life time.

New Plymouth Fury Weatherstripping