65 Model - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

[1rstMopar]

I have all the parts to do the conversion here or on order, so any day now. Anyhow I have a question, so I do not have to read through this whole thread again, so here goes; The block on my '65 that is fed by my single reservoir master cylinder is only a D/B or distribution block, and not a proportioning valve, whereas the donor '71 Block is an actual P/V, or Proportioning Valve, right?

Reason I ask Is I do not want to mess up the brake lines, so if I can just get the rear feed line off (without damage) and plug that hole then I can leave the front lines on the original block and feed it from P/V via the new M/C, while feeding the rear as per normal directly from the P/V. Your thoughts? Best way to get the lines off without destroying them?

 

[tallhair]

I have all the parts to do the conversion here or on order. so any day now. Anyhow, I have a question

, so here goes; The block on my '65 that is fed by my single reservoir master cylinder is only a D/B or distribution block, and not a proportioning valve, whereas the donor '71 Block is an actual Proportioning Valve, right?

Reason I ask Is I do not want to mess up the brake lines, so if I can just get the rear feed line off (without damage) and plug that hole then I can leave the front lines on the original block and feed it from P/V via the new M/C, while feeding the rear as per normal directly from the P/V. Your thoughts? Best way to get the lines off without destroying them?

You should probably really start a new thread and

so I do not have to read through this whole thread again,

You would probably be wise to read through this thread again before you start on the project and some other threads on the conversion here on FCBO as well

 

[Big_John]

the donor '71 Block is an actual Proportioning Valve, right?

No, not really if it's from a C-body. They used a distribution block and a metering valve in the front lines. In 70, they were two separate pieces. In 71 it was one piece. It's not a proportioning valve by any definition.

Best way to get the lines off without destroying them?

Use a flare nut wrench and your favorite penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) If your lines won't come apart without any other heroics, then they need replacing.

As Tall Hair said, it would be wise to read through this thread and others. Then start your own thread and you'll find there will be lots of help.

 

[tallhair]

As Tall Hair said, it would be wise to read through this thread and others. Then start your own thread and you'll find there will be lots of help.

which will in-turn help others in the future as you will likely wind up with a few different questions and need for assistance with things that didn't come up here as you have a different model year

 

[1rstMopar]

No, not really if it's from a C-body. They used a distribution block and a metering valve in the front lines. In 70, they were two separate pieces. In 71 it was one piece. It's not a proportioning valve by any definition.


Use a flare nut wrench and your favorite penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) If your lines won't come apart without any other heroics, then they need replacing.

As Tall Hair said, it would be wise to read through this thread and others. Then start your own thread and you'll find there will be lots of help.

First I want to say sorry to Garry if he, or some feel that I was jackin' his thread, I thought my questions were pointed and on topic.

Secondly I was encouraged by "Big John," and as it turned out my brake lines were not frozen to the nuts as I had expected, and as I have experienced in the past.

I appreciate all and any help that was offered. My 1965 Polara convertible will be a disc brake car by dinner time tomorrow if the pads show up, as everything else is here. I have the hydraulic set-up done, tomorrow the mechanical pieces go on.

Thanks again.

 

[tallhair]

I appreciate all and any help that was offered. My 1965 Polara convertible will be a disc brake car by dinner time tomorrow if the pads show up, as everything else is here. I have the hydraulic set-up done, tomorrow the mechanical pieces go on.

Please take plenty of pics so someone else can share in and learn from your project. More and more are doing this.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your new brakes and how good she stops tomorrow after supper

 

[saylor]

and please feel free to threadjack any of the fine selection of threads on this forum.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Big_John]

Gasp! We've been moderated!!

 

[tallhair]

Thread maintenance activities

 

[Big_John]

Thread maintenance activities

OK... How's this?
Gasp! We've been thread maintained!

 

[tallhair]

I'm ready for disc brake install status report and pics

Should be about done by now

 

[1rstMopar]

Yes it is done, but ran into some trouble. O'Rielly Auto sent me rotors for a '73+ C-body I discovered this as the bearings were to small for the races, when I popped them out (the installed races) and tried to install my A6 bearing race, it just fell right in. So as to not hold up progress I installed the rotors that came from the donor car as well as a decent set of used brake pads so I could at least bleed the system (daughter helped) after installing the new calipers and hoses.

I did not take pics along the way as I was up against the clock as far as rain forecast goes, as I was doing it outside in the driveway because my lighting in the garage sucks and it's a bit cramped. I did take her up to the store though before putting it away for the night and all is well, no leaks and stops good, though the rotors are not real good. I ordered another set of rotors tonight that I hope will be right (don't hate) from Autozone.

Thanks for moving my other posts and starting a new thread for me, I guess.

 

[1rstMopar]

I just went out and took some pic's, as i sorta noticed a hint of skepticism/doubt in one of the later posts as to my ability to put this together in under 2 days.

I am glad to be of any help to someone who is considering this project, "it's not rocket appliances" (Rickyism from trailer park boys).

I would also like to thank SF-66TC for having a comprehensive list of ideas, suggestions and parts list, he goes into great detail and his advice is priceless.

 

[tallhair]

I just went out and took some pic's, as i sorta noticed a hint of skepticism/doubt in one of the later posts as to my ability to put this together in under 2 days.

No skepticism. You sounded pretty confident so I figured you would pull through. Just having a little fun and looking forward to the updates. I'm sure you've lurked here so both are par for the course.

Good job

 

[1rstMopar]

Yes, actually I had an account here when I first got the car @ 7 years ago, I think I stumbled on to this site when I first became interested in doing the conversion, but was soon discouraged, as it wasn't as viable an option then (at least not in my mind). I stopped coming here till recently and couldn't remember login, so I established a new account.

A little history on the car, it was a late 90's restoration performed by my grandfather, he restored it to about 99% original as all I can find wrong is the side mirrors (I added the wheels and tires), he used to do the car show circuit. After buying it from him I have had grand plans for it, however I have restrained myself because everything works on the car, and I love the way it runs, so I don't want to lose dependability for more power.

As a side note I did take the Autopilot off when I put the new Master Cylinder on (I hated that thing anyway, have had it disconnected since I bought the car because it causes way to heavy of a gas pedal), so I will be needing to source a speedo' cable for a non-Autopilot car to get that working again.

 

[1rstMopar]

Word to the wise, do not order rotors from O'Rielly Auto, or Autozone, they list the wrong part number, I have spindles from a '71 Fury III, I first ordered from "O" because my company has an account there, when I recieved '73+ rotors, I ordered from Autozone for 20% off plus free shipping and a $10 gift card. Upon doing some research I found out who the vendors were who supply both these stores, and they cross referenced as '73+ rotors. Now I have them on order from Rock Auto, as I should have done in the first place when I was attempting to avoid shipping, now I am glad to pay it so I can finish up.

 

[Don Clemenceau]

I have all the parts to do the conversion here or on order, so any day now. Anyhow I have a question, so I do not have to read through this whole thread again, so here goes; The block on my '65 that is fed by my single reservoir master cylinder is only a D/B or distribution block, and not a proportioning valve, whereas the donor '71 Block is an actual P/V, or Proportioning Valve, right?

Reason I ask Is I do not want to mess up the brake lines, so if I can just get the rear feed line off (without damage) and plug that hole then I can leave the front lines on the original block and feed it from P/V via the new M/C, while feeding the rear as per normal directly from the P/V. Your thoughts? Best way to get the lines off without destroying them?

I have a 65 also. If its not an issue I would like to know which kit you purchased and did you change to 15 in rims?