66 300 - What to do?

[Eric62]

This is the Chrysler 300 I mentioned in my welcome thread a few days ago. It was dropped off today and well... It is rough to say the least. No title, although I'm sure I could get one. I spent a little time taking pics with my camera, but my card reader is not working, so I will have to get a new one. A bad phone pic will have to do for right now.
Not sure which engine it has, but it is a 4 barrel.
Bad:
missing fender skirts and a few pieces of trim
interior is shot
right fender smashed up pretty good
some rust although I don't think it's bad
I know nothing about engine or tranny
No keys
no title

The good:
Has cruise control... have never seen that on a car this old, but I have not seen that many old cars.
mentioned before body is not that bad from what I have seen... A lot of cleaning will need to take place before I will know for sure.
good windshield, lol
I absolutely love the body style of this thing.

I'd like opinions... Is this a parts car... worth saving? In my opinion is is definitely too far gone to restore but I'm kind of thinking of challenging myself with it. Set a budget and see if I can build a solid, reliable, safe, simple, cruiser for under $3k... In the next few years I want to do some traveling and I want to do it in a classic.

 

[Clover]

They are one of my favorites and it looks like it could be worth saving. If it’s not too rusty and you can make it run then you have a good chance with your budget.

 

[FURYGT]

I love that body style and own one myself (search for Flyin Whale).

We really need several good photos to give you any valuable feedback on the car. They made a lot of them so finding a fender, the skirts and the upper quarter panel trim won't be hard. If the tail lamp lenses and bezels are crap then you will find out that they are very hard to find in good shape for a reasonable price.

 

[Eric62]

They are one of my favorites and it looks like it could be worth saving. If it’s not too rusty and you can make it run then you have a good chance with your budget.

Thanks... Going to need a respirator, pressure washer, shovel, and a shop vac to get started. Even if the engine is seized, I see reasonably priced 440's often (a lot of times free if you haul off the RV that it is in).

 

[Davea Lux]

The engine ID for big blocks will be on the machined pad next to the distributor. Starting in 1965 a letter code for the year is in front of the displacement. The letter code for 1965 is A, followed by the engine size, the 413 engine is sometimes stamped "41" rather than A 413. From 1966 onward the complete displacement should be listed, for example B 440 for '66. The letter will go up one character for each additional year. The machined pad will also usually have an assembly date for the engine, in addition to any specialty codes for oversized bores, undersized bearings etc. The FSM gives the complete listing of these codes.

Your 300 should have a 383 or 440 engine. All C bodies of that era with big blocks will have the A 727 transmission which is the heavy duty style.

Dave

 

[Eric62]

I love that body style and own one myself (search for Flyin Whale).

We really need several good photos to give you any valuable feedback on the car. They made a lot of them so finding a fender, the skirts and the upper quarter panel trim won't be hard. If the tail lamp lenses and bezels are crap then you will find out that they are very hard to find in good shape for a reasonable price.

Yes, it will be a few days... ordering a card reader tonight... My phone takes crappy pics.
1 of the tail lights and bezels are ok (pitted but intact), but the other side is smashed up.
I have been learning some sheet metal shaping so I might even be able to make the skirts at some point if need be.

 

[Eric62]

The engine ID for big blocks will be on the machined pad next to the distributor. Starting in 1965 a letter code for the year is in front of the displacement. The letter code for 1965 is A, followed by the engine size, the 413 engine is sometimes stamped "41" rather than A 413. From 1966 onward the complete displacement should be listed, for example B 440 for '66. The letter will go up one character for each additional year. The machined pad will also usually have an assembly date for the engine, in addition to any specialty codes for oversized bores, undersized bearings etc. The FSM gives the complete listing of these codes.

Your 300 should have a 383 or 440 engine. All C bodies of that era with big blocks will have the A 727 transmission which is the heavy duty style.

Dave

Thank You!... I will be looking for an FSM soon and I will check the codes tomorrow.

 

[Davea Lux]

I would suggest that you remove the valve covers and spray all of the valve stems with a good penetrating oil prior to trying to start this car. Remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with diesel and let it sit a few days. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank so you do not suck up a bunch of crap. If the engine will turn over, install points, plugs condenser, rotor and cap. Hook a fuel line from the fuel pump to a can of fresh gas and see if it will fire up. Note that the hoses and belts are probably going to be bad so if the engine shows enough life to start, do not leave it running until coolant and hose issues have been dealt with. Do not forget to also change the engine oil and filter as they will be contaminated by the diesel. You will probably also need a fresh kit for the carb.

Dave

 

[Eric62]

I would suggest that you remove the valve covers and spray all of the valve stems with a good penetrating oil prior to trying to start this car. Remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with diesel and let it sit a few days. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank so you do not suck up a bunch of crap. If the engine will turn over, install points, plugs condenser, rotor and cap. Hook a fuel line from the fuel pump to a can of fresh gas and see if it will fire up. Note that the hoses and belts are probably going to be bad so if the engine shows enough life to start, do not leave it running until coolant and hose issues have been dealt with. Do not forget to also change the engine oil and filter as they will be contaminated by the diesel.

Dave

Thanks... was definitely going to lube up the cylinders, but did not know about the valve stems... I don't think the current carb will work at all, but I have a few old edelbrocks laying around that might bolt up. No keys, so I might have to come up with a remote starter. I will be up North for all of Oct so I probably won't have time to mess with the engine until Nov. Going to move things around and get it parked inside before I leave.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks... was definitely going to lube up the cylinders, but did not know about the valve stems... I don't think the current carb will work at all, but I have a few old edelbrocks laying around that might bolt up. No keys, so I might have to come up with a remote starter. I will be up North for all of Oct so I probably won't have time to mess with the engine until Nov. Going to move things around and get it parked inside before I leave.

The idea is to lube the valve stems in case they have rusted so no valve gets stuck and clobbered by a piston. It is usually a good idea to have a helper rock the crankshaft by hand to be sure all valves are moving prior to using the starter. You can check the timing chain for excessive wear while rocking the crank back and forth, should no have more than 12-15 degrees of slop. I replace them if over 12 degrees. You can also soak the factory AFB cab in diesel and see if you can free it up.

Dave

 

[LeBaron1973]

Like you suggest, a thorough cleaning will reveal all, hopefully its not too bad.

If you can provide a photo or details of the build tag the guys can decode it, probably even assembly date.

Best of luck with it.

 

[Eric62]

Like you suggest, a thorough cleaning will reveal all, hopefully its not too bad.

If you can provide a photo or details of the build tag the guys can decode it, probably even assembly date.

Best of luck with it.

Thanks... Yes I took a pic of the tag, but like I mentioned earlier, card reader quit working and can't get the images off the mem cards, doh. I'll use my phone and try and take a few more tomorrow.

 

[LeBaron1973]

 

[CBODY67]

In order to get it running without getting fuel system gunk into the carb, you can get a plastic or steel boat fuel tank at some sporting goods stores. 5 gal or less? Put on a new fuel pump and use the boat gas tank for its inlet feed, disconnecting and plugging the line from the tank to the pump. That way, you get a temporary "good" fuel feed. You can probably find a place to secure it under the hood, away from the exhaust manifolds, so you can run the car to check things out, but NOT drive it.

Anything can be "fixed" with time and money. How much can be variable.

It CAN be a nice car, when done, just from what I can see. The fender skirts are quite complex in their shape AND the locking mechanism to hold them in place. Plus the thin rubber "gasket" around the edge. There's more there than you might suspect. Standard engine would have been a 383/325 4bbl V-8. I suspect the optional 440 for a 300 would have been the "TNT" 440/365 motor in '66? 4bbl, dual exhaust, dual snorkel air cleaner with a "TNT 440" plate on the top of the air cleaner. The 440/350 would have been New Yorker or Town & Country, only, as I recall. Same motor, just different "dress" (dual exhaust, the air cleaner, etc.). Same cams, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Eric62]

In order to get it running without getting fuel system gunk into the carb, you can get a plastic or steel boat fuel tank at some sporting goods stores. 5 gal or less? Put on a new fuel pump and use the boat gas tank for its inlet feed, disconnecting and plugging the line from the tank to the pump. That way, you get a temporary "good" fuel feed. You can probably find a place to secure it under the hood, away from the exhaust manifolds, so you can run the car to check things out, but NOT drive it.

Anything can be "fixed" with time and money. How much can be variable.

It CAN be a nice car, when done, just from what I can see. The fender skirts are quite complex in their shape AND the locking mechanism to hold them in place. Plus the thin rubber "gasket" around the edge. There's more there than you might suspect. Standard engine would have been a 383/325 4bbl V-8. I suspect the optional 440 for a 300 would have been the "TNT" 440/365 motor in '66? 4bbl, dual exhaust, dual snorkel air cleaner with a "TNT 440" plate on the top of the air cleaner. The 440/350 would have been New Yorker or Town & Country, only, as I recall. Same motor, just different "dress" (dual exhaust, the air cleaner, etc.). Same cams, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Thank You for the tips!

 

[stubs300]

I sure hope you didn't spend more then 500 on it, you'll need it for parts. Good Luck

 

[Eric62]

I was just outside and took a few more phone pics... I looked for the pad by the dist with the engine info, but did not see it. The engine is dirty and obscured by the hoses and AC compressor... I will look into it further at some point.

 

[Eric62]

I sure hope you didn't spend more then 500 on it, you'll need it for parts. Good Luck

I agree... I spent 600, but that included delivery.

 

[Davea Lux]

Rotted door post is a very bad sign.

Dave

 

[stubs300]

The next question is, Is that scorch red that's super faded or did someone paint it a faded pussy pink?