'66 Fury engine bay wiring

[roelb]

So I bought the engine harness a few years ago,now getting ready to install after fitting the 390 stroker.
But, I am lost, there are quite a few differences between my Fury's originel wiring and the new one. Next to the connector is a grey male wire that I suppose should be inside the block? But where, as there are two empty slots Photo 1.

Then, can anyone school me on the fusible link. Mine has burnt the plastic off at some stage. I want to try and get one made up, what thickness etc do I need. It runs from the front lights harness to a metal prong unit, also have a single black wire running with it to a relay. Photo 2 Please bear in mind I am in South Africa and nobody in my area work on old American cars or can give advice.
I apologise for the stupid question been sitting all day with the diagrams trying to sort it out
Last pic is just to show my progress, fitted the engine 2 weeks ago

 

[stubs300]

Why is the coil way the hell over here and not any closer to the distributor?

 

[mopar440]

That is gonna be a helluva coil wire!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Nice work so far. There are no bad questions, and the only stupid question is the one you DIDN'T ask, so always ask!

In general, the ignition coil should be as close to the distributor as possible, and hence is usually mounted on the intake. I notice however that you are using an aftermarket intake which may have made the coil mounting a challenge. Try to find a closer location.

Regarding the Fusible Link - one can buy RAW fusible link wire and make your own, and as well, pretty much any B body fusible link wire will suffice to offer the protection needed. Unless you're going for a complete factory original restoration, I would just go with a generic fusible link such as could be found here:
mopar C body fusible link - Google Search

As far as I can see in the engine bay wiring schematic, the gray wire could possibly be for the oil pressure sender. However, I am not sure either.

What you need to do is see what is the SAME COLOUR wire that comes out of the bulkhead connector into the passenger compartment, and where it goes. There are two circuits that use a gray wire according to the service manual G6 is for the oil pressure warning light, and the other is X21, which I can't seem to find in the body circuit. X21 does NOT show up in the engine bay wiring schematic, so I believe you can rule that out.

Hope this helps!

Edit - in the interests of overall safety, I respectfully suggest that you consider changing your brake master cylinder to a dual circuit one. If you pop even ONE brake line with a single pot master like you have, you will have NO brakes at all. With a dual circuit master, when a brake line fails you still have two wheels with functioning brakes.

Something worth thinking about.

Kits for manual brake dual circuit master cylinders are available and it's a fairly easy upgrade.

 

[roelb]

Thanks for all the feedback , I appreciate it :
I bought an aftermarket Chrysler Power intake from Roland way back, it was his show room intake at that stage. ( there was none in stock and he kindly sold me this one)
Then changed to a Mopar electronic ignition, which made a huge difference on the old 318. My friend that did the electronic installation fitted the coil there. The new Mopar coil wire reaches that easily. But, if I can I shall move it closer to the distributor. Not sure if the intake has a slot for it, will check tomorrow. I include a pic from before I removed the 318. I use the wagon as a daily driver and never had a problem, it pulled like a train, no misfires. But, if the coil needs to be closer I shall try and make a plan
Ross, thanks for the info re the loom and link, I shall check it out tomorrow. It is quite late here, all has gone to bed
The dual circle is definitely on my list to do, I just want to get the wagon on the road first.
Parts here all has to be imported, 5 weeks minimum, import taxes, more taxes, sales tax etc, our gov take as much possible. So I have to do careful planning when ordering stuff.
Good night all

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

My car should have nearly identical wiring so don't be afraid to ask me further.

 

[roelb]

Thanks Ross

 

[roelb]

Ross, I think I've sorted the gray wire, G6
What confused me is it is taped in with the engine harness, but both ends are loose. But looking at me old one the gray wire goes into to bottom connector for lights etc. Also taped with the old engine harness, but going into lower connector.For oil switch. I have also marked it oil when removing old harness.
Thanks
Hope it makes sense

 

[bigmoparjeff]

The fusible link should be 2 sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting. For example, you would use a 14 gauge fusible link to protect a 10 gauge wire.

Since you are working on your underhood wiring, it would be a good time to install an ammeter bypass on the car, which is essentially a 10 gauge wire that goes from the output of the alternator directly to the large stud on the starter relay. This wire would also get a fusible link installed at the relay end.

Jeff

 

[roelb]

Thanks Jeff