66 monaco disk brake conversion
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1966newport
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exactly
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
I'm really not an expert here, but a few things stand out.
1) Commando1's comment about a dual master cylinder is right on. If you're going to all this trouble, really, you can and should replace the master cylinder. It's safer. It's better. It will probably have the proper proportioning right out of the box.
2) I like the Scarebird setup: it uses parts that bolt on, and no ball joints get hurt. Off-the shelf parts. So what if it uses Ford rotors? I'd want to check on availability of parts, but looks like a good bet. Might be the easiest and cheapest option.
3) ECI doesn't say anything about parts interchangeability. As an owner of oddball brakes, that would be a concern for me. Might be nothing, though. It's worth a call.
4) Unless you're going to swap out to period-correct 1966 brakes, I don't see a lot of value in sticking to all Mopar. You're still going to have to keep track of the different parts on the car when you buy parts or sell it, and it's not really original. If you're updating and modifying, go for function over family.
Just my thoughts, from a non-expert.
1) Commando1's comment about a dual master cylinder is right on. If you're going to all this trouble, really, you can and should replace the master cylinder. It's safer. It's better. It will probably have the proper proportioning right out of the box.
2) I like the Scarebird setup: it uses parts that bolt on, and no ball joints get hurt. Off-the shelf parts. So what if it uses Ford rotors? I'd want to check on availability of parts, but looks like a good bet. Might be the easiest and cheapest option.
3) ECI doesn't say anything about parts interchangeability. As an owner of oddball brakes, that would be a concern for me. Might be nothing, though. It's worth a call.
4) Unless you're going to swap out to period-correct 1966 brakes, I don't see a lot of value in sticking to all Mopar. You're still going to have to keep track of the different parts on the car when you buy parts or sell it, and it's not really original. If you're updating and modifying, go for function over family.
Just my thoughts, from a non-expert.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
The scarebird kit makes the most sense my reasons as follows.
1. Scarbird kits use Dodge ram calipers and pads if you can't find these at a local to where you are autoparts you need to find a different auto parts store.
2. If you want shiny billit type unreliable parts that the earthworms and crickets are looking at as you drive across the grass at Carlisle, Nat's, ect, you probably just asked the question to the wrong people. Suggest moparts or shiny part forum.
3. If you use the car as it should be, read :driven then when it breaks you will not be holed up in a hotel room waiting for the UPS man to bring parts so you can go home, see point 1 again.
4. If you want to put correct 66 disc brakes on the car see if you can get a deal and have the Dominatrix lady come by and whip you at the same time, kind of a 2 birds with one stone, I can only assume that this would be option that would be considered by someone who likes abuse J.K.
5. Other kits I'm sure are ok as long as they use common pads and IMO calipers that you should be able to get at advance, auto zone, Napa, and so on.
6. The calipers in the scarebird kit are for a Dodge ram, my 1998 weighs approx 5800# a c body car weighs less that's a win. Some kits out there have calipers from cars that weigh less than a c body, brake performance will probably be worse than with the drum brakes minus the grabbing.
1. Scarbird kits use Dodge ram calipers and pads if you can't find these at a local to where you are autoparts you need to find a different auto parts store.
2. If you want shiny billit type unreliable parts that the earthworms and crickets are looking at as you drive across the grass at Carlisle, Nat's, ect, you probably just asked the question to the wrong people. Suggest moparts or shiny part forum.
3. If you use the car as it should be, read :driven then when it breaks you will not be holed up in a hotel room waiting for the UPS man to bring parts so you can go home, see point 1 again.
4. If you want to put correct 66 disc brakes on the car see if you can get a deal and have the Dominatrix lady come by and whip you at the same time, kind of a 2 birds with one stone, I can only assume that this would be option that would be considered by someone who likes abuse J.K.
5. Other kits I'm sure are ok as long as they use common pads and IMO calipers that you should be able to get at advance, auto zone, Napa, and so on.
6. The calipers in the scarebird kit are for a Dodge ram, my 1998 weighs approx 5800# a c body car weighs less that's a win. Some kits out there have calipers from cars that weigh less than a c body, brake performance will probably be worse than with the drum brakes minus the grabbing.
I used the Scarebird kit on my '68 Polara, it was simple and straightforward. The only potential problem that could arise if one is not prepared, is having to press the machined rings (included in the kit) onto the spindle, to accommodate the new rear seal on the new rotor/hub assembly. I already had my spindles removed to do the complete suspension rebuild, so I just used the ole 12 ton shop press to install the rings. As a whole, the kit is a great option!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
IF (!) I was beat on with a baseball bat and coerced into doing the conversion, I would bite the bullet and get the '73 Mopar spindles. That way you are sticking to what it was designed for, works, and you know exactly what replacement parts to get in the future.
For petesakes, an '84 Caprice spindle, a '91 Mustang V8 caliper and pads, a 2001 Volvo inner and outer bearings, a custom bracket, a....
WhoTF brewed up that stew?
Posted via Topify on Android
For petesakes, an '84 Caprice spindle, a '91 Mustang V8 caliper and pads, a 2001 Volvo inner and outer bearings, a custom bracket, a....
WhoTF brewed up that stew?
Posted via Topify on Android
ECI Kit bolts on and it's mostly gm parts.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
Which would be fine. They just don't list that on their website in the description. Worth a call to know exactly what's going on.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
It was designed for a '73 Mopar, not a '66 Mopar. I see what you're saying, but as long as you're keeping track of the fact that your 66 needs 73 pads when you go to the parts store, what's the difference in telling them you need pads off a truck?
Mr C
Senior Member
I'm glad I have Formals...no disc brake swap hassles. One less headache.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
I'm glad I have an Imperial. No disk brake swap hassles.
....just disk brake hassles.
....just disk brake hassles.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Couldn't you heat the sleeve and slide it on that's the way most replaceable races on a shaft can be done, like truck rearends and transmissions?
Yes Sir....the best engineered C-Body.....Formal's.
I just used a piece of pipe and some washers with the spindle nut. The press was not that tight in my opinion. I have a couple thousand miles on the brakes and they work great.
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...ke-conversion-on-1964-880&highlight=scarebird
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...ke-conversion-on-1964-880&highlight=scarebird
twostick
Senior Member
All the suspension parts are the same from 65 to 73 excluding Budd disc cars (66 to 68) so it kinda sorta is designed for a 66.
The only thing different about the 73 is the spindle size, as it takes larger wheel bearings. This means it uses a different rotor than the 69 to late 72. Unicast are late 72 forward and the 2 pce are earlier. My understanding is they are now doing the pre 73 rotors in unicast so they should be less expensive than the 2 pce were.
The rest of the stuff is the same 69 to 73.
You will also need a dual diaphragm power brake booster and dual res master. The 73 booster will fit BUT is IIRC a larger single diaphragm and it interferes with the column shift linkage.
I used the booster and master off a disc brake 69 300 on my 66 New Yorker but it is a console shift so I can't swear it will work with a column shift but it's a dual diaphragm so I suspect it will. I used an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brake line but you can use the combo valve from whatever donor car you find.
The reason the 73 is the preferred spindle is because the rotors were about $100 cheaper than the earlier 2 pce ones. That being said even if the earlier rotors are still $100 more expensive I would still go with the pre 73 spindles before I would use one of those other kits. Given the limited use most of these cars get, the rotors will last many years.
Kevin
The only thing different about the 73 is the spindle size, as it takes larger wheel bearings. This means it uses a different rotor than the 69 to late 72. Unicast are late 72 forward and the 2 pce are earlier. My understanding is they are now doing the pre 73 rotors in unicast so they should be less expensive than the 2 pce were.
The rest of the stuff is the same 69 to 73.
You will also need a dual diaphragm power brake booster and dual res master. The 73 booster will fit BUT is IIRC a larger single diaphragm and it interferes with the column shift linkage.
I used the booster and master off a disc brake 69 300 on my 66 New Yorker but it is a console shift so I can't swear it will work with a column shift but it's a dual diaphragm so I suspect it will. I used an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brake line but you can use the combo valve from whatever donor car you find.
The reason the 73 is the preferred spindle is because the rotors were about $100 cheaper than the earlier 2 pce ones. That being said even if the earlier rotors are still $100 more expensive I would still go with the pre 73 spindles before I would use one of those other kits. Given the limited use most of these cars get, the rotors will last many years.
Kevin
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