67 Fury, drilling out sway bar-frame brackets

[edbods]

Unlikely that I'm going to be able to get a set of PST brackets as they appear to be no longer in production, so have settled for trying to improve the OE brackets to make them serviceable. The bushing kit I got off rockauto, K7061:

has two nuts and bolts for what I can only assume is meant for the somewhat common mod of drilling out the welds in these brackets to make them serviceable...but where do you actually drill out? Just the center of one face, or two faces like below?

 

[MONC440]

I'm watching this one as I have to do this in the near future.

Are you also changing the bushing at the strut rod?

 

[Big_John]

Unlikely that I'm going to be able to get a set of PST brackets as they appear to be no longer in production, so have settled for trying to improve the OE brackets to make them serviceable. The bushing kit I got off rockauto, K7061:
View attachment 714645has two nuts and bolts for what I can only assume is meant for the somewhat common mod of drilling out the welds in these brackets to make them serviceable...but where do you actually drill out? Just the center of one face, or two faces like below?
View attachment 714646

The idea is to drill through the spot weld holding it together.

That said, there was this thread and some mention of putting it back together without splitting it apart. Replacing the Sway Bar Bushings

 

[MoPar~Man]

I had my bar completely off, but with those hangers still on. I bought the kit from rock, but left them in the box. The originals seemed tight enough so I buffed the entire bar and the hangers (rod + bracket) and painted them with DOM-16. The sway bar (and the torsion bars) were the only parts that I didn't have powder coated. Everything, and I mean everything else including the stub was powder coated.

I think you should focus on the lower control arm bushings if you're looking for the source of a knock or you want to tighten up the front end. That and the upper/lower ball joints. I think these sway bar hanger bushings are at the bottom of the list. Yes the strut rod sway bar bushings are easy to do and you might get some satisfaction from that.

 

[Rainy Day]

When I replaced mine I did not split the hangers apart, I drove them off the bar with a pickle fork and hammer sideways and slid the new bushings over the square end 1st then knocked the bushing and hangers back together. Just use a block of wood to hold the bushing still while you tap the hangers into the bushing.

 

[mgm1986]

Following, I have my sway bar on the bench asking the exact same question

 

[edbods]

I'm watching this one as I have to do this in the near future.

Are you also changing the bushing at the strut rod?

eeyup. i'm replacing all rubber suspension bits minus the big bump stops on the stub frame because those were the only ones that were in good nick.

The idea is to drill through the spot weld holding it together.

That said, there was this thread and some mention of putting it back together without splitting it apart. Replacing the Sway Bar Bushings

I did see that. I've decided it's not worth the effort to try to push the bracket and bushing off the bar, I do want to make it easier to service in the future.

I had my bar completely off, but with those hangers still on. I bought the kit from rock, but left them in the box. The originals seemed tight enough so I buffed the entire bar and the hangers (rod + bracket) and painted them with DOM-16. The sway bar (and the torsion bars) were the only parts that I didn't have powder coated. Everything, and I mean everything else including the stub was powder coated.

I think you should focus on the lower control arm bushings if you're looking for the source of a knock or you want to tighten up the front end. That and the upper/lower ball joints. I think these sway bar hanger bushings are at the bottom of the list. Yes the strut rod sway bar bushings are easy to do and you might get some satisfaction from that.

Mine are mostly ok but I can see minor cracking. Plus I've already sorta sliced into one with a box cutter in an attempt to get it off. Not chasing any knocks at all, I'm just refurbishing all the suspension rubbers. I've got the kit for the sway bar bushings so might as well tackle that while I'm at it. Strut rod-sway bar bushings are indeed very easy, my only gripe is that the replacements sold on rockauto don't seem to have the extra tab of rubber that goes in the gap between the strut rod and sway bar. Probably won't make much difference though.

In any case, I'm going to take my sway bar to work, they've got a nice big bench drill so it'll be easier to see where exactly I need to drill, and whether I have to drill two holes per bracket or just one.

 

[volksworld]

you'll need to drill 2 unless you hate yourself and want to try to pry the bracket open and beat it back together...the kit only comes with 2 bolts cause technically it's a set of bushings for an aftermarket 2 piece bracket...

 

[edbods]

Ahhhhhhh that's why. Thank goodness that I can easily get some extra nuts and bolts then.

 

[edbods]

Well POO. I tried to drill out what I thought were the spot welds with a 10mm drill bit. Drill press made short work of it...but it's still stuck together tight. I had to slice out one flange of the bushing then force it out with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver, allowing me to at least take the brackets off the bar.
The issue seems to be that the spot welds are at least 12-14mm in diameter, but using a drill bit that big doesn't leave much meat to actually clamp down with a nut and bolt.
I've left the brackets with the guys in the workshop to see if they can figure out a way to split it apart. More updates to come tomorrow...

 

[edbods]

Update: WOOHOO. Workshop buddies used a very thin cold chisel to split apart the rest of the spot welds. Apparently put up a fight though, "wasn't easy" was what I was told so I owe them beer and food.

 

[edbods]

Pic of the final result:

I don't know if these can be cold chiselled out without having to drill out the weld, but if they can that would be the preferable route - whoever welded these particular brackets together didn't really align them, so the hole I drilled out in the separated bit is pretty close to the edge.

 

[edbods]

On a related note, the bushings for the bracket that connects the sway bar to the strut rod - if you buy aftermarket ones there's a good chance they don't have a slit in them, and unless you can fab up some sort of sleeve, it's damn near impossible to push them on without seriously damaging them. Just use a box cutter and slit it straight down, rocking the cutter up and down like a bumper jack seems to work really well. Then use a flathead screwdriver to pry it open and slip it onto the bar.

 

[mgm1986]

Thank you for sharing this info. It helped me complete the same job on my sway bar. I drilled holes through each spot weld with a 1/4" bit and then used a hacksaw to cut through the spot welds. It was not a difficult task just took patience. I was able to reassemble without issue just waiting for the bushings to get here that connect the sway bar to the struts.

Your post helped me get there, thanks again for sharing!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Unlikely that I'm going to be able to get a set of PST brackets as they appear to be no longer in production, so have settled for trying to improve the OE brackets to make them serviceable. The bushing kit I got off rockauto, K7061:

has two nuts and bolts for what I can only assume is meant for the somewhat common mod of drilling out the welds in these brackets to make them serviceable...but where do you actually drill out? Just the center of one face, or two faces like below?

NEVER EVER DRILL OR CUT SO MUCH AS A SPLINTER OF STEEL FROM THE LINKS!!!!!! PERIOD!!

All you have to do is unbolt the sway bar, use a liberal amount of SOAP, wiggle the old bushings off the now soaped sway bar, cut the old rubber or press it out, pop the NEW rubber in, slide it back into place, install the new link bushings, bottom first, then tops, turn the sway bar link nuts back down the few inch pounds specified in the FSM, pop new strut rod bushings on, clamp the clamps around the strut rod, and VOILA! You've made your front suspension considerably more stable for some years to come!

EZPZ.

I have seen McQuay-Norris links once made to replace the originals which use slots to fold onto the sway bar bushing, but these long ago became Unobtainium, so I don't bother searching any longer. Just mind how to PROPERLY install the new rubber, and don't **** up your ride.

 

[edbods]

uhh...you're late by about 42 days. And why not cut them out? I've seen a few others here do it to theirs without reporting issues post-install.

 

[mgm1986]

NEVER EVER DRILL OR CUT SO MUCH AS A SPLINTER OF STEEL FROM THE LINKS!!!!!! PERIOD!!

All you have to do is unbolt the sway bar, use a liberal amount of SOAP, wiggle the old bushings off the now soaped sway bar, cut the old rubber or press it out, pop the NEW rubber in, slide it back into place, install the new link bushings, bottom first, then tops, turn the sway bar link nuts back down the few inch pounds specified in the FSM, pop new strut rod bushings on, clamp the clamps around the strut rod, and VOILA! You've made your front suspension considerably more stable for some years to come!

EZPZ.

I always appreciate hearing how others get the job done. I was able to remove the old rubber by cutting the raised ends off one side and pushing the old bushing out. But there was no amount of soap or lubricant I could apply to get the new bushing in with the tools in my garage. I am not saying it isn't possible I am saying I was unable to do it. I tried soaking it in hot water and using soap but the new rubber is so stiff it would not fit into the opening.

 

[Gerald Morris]

uhh...you're late by about 42 days. And why not cut them out? I've seen a few others here do it to theirs without reporting issues post-install.

I don't recommend removing metal from your links because the damned things are undersized to start with. Rather than cut them, I would sooner size UP the links, especially the shaft to the K-frame. I don't like cutting metal out of the straps either, even though IF one were to punch a neat hole, say 11/32" into the welded portion of the strap angled off from the square center, to permit a 5/16" x 3/4" carriage bolt through on each side to permit one to cut the weld, then use the bolt to hold the bottom in place, it probably wouldn't subtract MUCH strength from the strap, or, as McQuay-Norris did, to slot one side, and place the bolt in the center of the other, such subtractions still would compromise the strength of the straps against lateral shears. Again, better to make a heavier strap altogether, using maybe some rigid conduit straps meant for slotted struts or such.

Any such modification must be set against the benefit of making it a bit easier to replace the bushings. This really is an easy enough procedure, which is why I left this metal alone. The damned links really are too flimsy; doubtless another Triumph of the Beancounter Swill in corporate offices of Daze Long gone now. If the welded on brackets at the K-frame are in good shape, I'd consider drilling them out for some top grade steel 3/8"x16 threads, and machining up better links to bolt in. One can use the strut-rod bushings with ROUND straps with such, and yes, round straps can easily enough be procured. The swaybar itself is good stuff, though I suppose a lot of this modern ersatz steel on the market SHOULD be thicker, just to match the strength of the old 7/8" rod.

A pity about PST dropping its support for C-body Mopars in this regard, but no big surprise. I'm glad I have 3 swaybars with 5 links to fool with. Two of those links are certainly in good enough shape for use, and since I'm fixin' to replace all my front suspension, I thank St. Joe and his Boss I have some extra parts nowadaze.

I'll pray your ride goes straight and true.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I always appreciate hearing how others get the job done. I was able to remove the old rubber by cutting the raised ends off one side and pushing the old bushing out. But there was no amount of soap or lubricant I could apply to get the new bushing in with the tools in my garage. I am not saying it isn't possible I am saying I was unable to do it. I tried soaking it in hot water and using soap but the new rubber is so stiff it would not fit into the opening.

Hmm, I wonder how new your new rubber was. Due to a shortage of this material a few yrs ago, I hoarded several sets of swaybar bushings, and having just checked, the link bushings seemed soft enough. I pop them into the straps first, then slide the assembled strap w bushing onto one end or the other of the swaybar. Never had much trouble with them that way.... I kinda collapse the bushing inward on itself, then press it in. Used my dinky 3 1/2" vice once to do that I recall. I reckon a big C-clamp w a couple boards would do the same. The Lord knows I've improvised tools around here since 2016, though now I've got a decent set, and thank Him for that, AND the ability to use them still.

 

[mgm1986]

@Gerald Morris - I used the Mevotech set and it was so stiff I had to double check they weren't poly! (their website says it is "High Grade Natural Rubber")

In a few weeks I hope to have the old girl back on the road and with time should be able to tell if these hold up or if a mistake was made drilling out a bolt hole. Looking at the bracket, even with the 1/4" hole I drilled, the weak spot seems to be the post that connect to the stub frame and not the actual bracket that holds the bushing.