68 New Yorker electrical diagnosis help

todd sherrod

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Need a little direction . I'm pretty well versed in tech stuff (been in the car business 41 years) but looking to fast forward on some electric stuff on my new 68 New Yorker. Car has sat 22 years so there are some corrosion problems at connectors etc.. I have all lights except headlights - went to the dimmer and ran redundant b+ to power side to switch and got lights - I'm thinking headlight switch (it's the toggle style) I could mount a separate toggle for headlights but would prefer Oem to work , anyone experience this ? Also has auto air , no fan at all - b+ to blower and it works - sounds like I need to tackle dash removal . Any help appreciated .
 
Sounds like fusible link and/or headlight switch and blower motor resistor are possible... but with the resistor you should have high speed just not low...
 
For corrosion at the terminals, I suggest using Deoxit.
Amazon.com: CAIG DeOxIT D100 Power Booster Metal Electric Connection Cleaner, Enhancer, and Lubricant: Electronics

A little pricey, but a little goes a long way.

The heater fan switch is prone to failure (at least in my experience) so that doesn't surprise me. The push buttom vacuum switches fall apart too, and that may be your issue.

I assume you checked power to both switches??

The heater switch is usually easy to find, but the headlight switch might be a little harder. I'm pretty sure nobody makes a new one, but there are NOS and good used out there.

Pulling the dash is a little drastic and not for the faint of heart. I've done it and it's no fun.

Here's a link to a factory service manual that will have wiring diagrams. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

and a parts book. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books
 
Are these the only two things that don't work as they should? Does the dome light work?

I will second all that Big John has said.

Clean your connections and then put Deoxit on them.

The crazy vacuum selectors switches are prone to the back falling off of them. Try all of the selections to see if the fan will run on any of them. When mine failed it would only run on one selection. There is a thread on here somewhere that talks of a guy that fixes the selector switches. Every once in a while you can find a NOS one on ebay.

All of the power comes into these cars on one wire to the Amp meter and then it splits I believe four different ways. From the split it goes to the headlight switch, ignition switch, fuse block, the last wire in the splice is power coming in from the alternator.
 
For corrosion at the terminals, I suggest using Deoxit.
Amazon.com: CAIG DeOxIT D100 Power Booster Metal Electric Connection Cleaner, Enhancer, and Lubricant: Electronics

A little pricey, but a little goes a long way.

The heater fan switch is prone to failure (at least in my experience) so that doesn't surprise me. The push buttom vacuum switches fall apart too, and that may be your issue.

I assume you checked power to both switches??

The heater switch is usually easy to find, but the headlight switch might be a little harder. I'm pretty sure nobody makes a new one, but there are NOS and good used out there.

Pulling the dash is a little drastic and not for the faint of heart. I've done it and it's no fun.

Here's a link to a factory service manual that will have wiring diagrams. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

and a parts book. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books
 
thanks John I pulled the dash and it was the switch , I ran the b+ for headlights from the switch to dimmer through a real nice thumb toggle switch under dash for the headlights , all lights working fine ! now on to the automatic air/heater concern ! dash was easier than I thought , but after 41 years in the car business I have seen a lot worse !
 
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