68 Newport project

[WissaMan]

I figured I'd start a thread on this project as some may find it interesting. What I've got is a 1968 Newport that was originally a 3-on-the-tree that someone converted to a 4-speed. I am not looking to restore it, rather, I'd like to make it nice but with some of my own touches to make it unique. But first I want to get it running and road-worthy to really see what I'm starting out with in terms of the mechanicals.

The body I'd say is in fair-to-average condition, with rust in the usual places on the fenders and trunk extensions.

The doors are pretty decent in the corners. Some rust but not rotted out

The trunk is not bad. I think at some point someone coated it with some kind of rustproofing that may or may not have helped. I used a needle scaler to remove most of it and it did poke through in a spot or two but nothing terrible.

The interior is interesting. It has that molded plastic behind the rear seats like my NYer. I didn't know a Newport could come with that. The style of the seats are also just like the NYer but are vinyl instead of leather. I have seen that before. Notice a PO removed the Newport emblem and replaced it with his own. Kinda gives you an indication of their mindset when it came to other mods they did to the car.

The seats are remarkably ok except, unfortunately, for a rip here and there.

 

[WissaMan]

The headliner is shot. I have to assume that the roof had a leak in it because the driver side floor, front and rear, is also quite rotted and is really the worst part of the car that I can see.

There's the ole Hurst shifter. It seemed to row through all the gears ok. I had to pull the gauge cluster to bypass the ammeter because it was an open circuit. Even after jumpering that, only the radio and maybe 1 or 2 other things worked. There was nothing going on at the starter. Wires are spliced in here and there and it looks like a hack job so I'm predicting some headaches with that.

Already got the engine removed

The engine that was in the car was a 73 440, I guess from a truck or motorhome because it has a forged crank. However, the intake and valley pan were removed for some time and there was some light surface rust on the lifters so I just decided to pull it and install the 440 from my New Yorker -- which is also a 73 440 but it only has about 20k miles on it since was rebuilt in the late 80's and I know it runs because I started it up a few months ago. Here it is just about ready to go. I actually took some things off the Newport's engine and transferred them over (HP exhaust manifolds, carb, PS pump, removed the AC compressor) While it was out, I installed new gaskets all around, rebuilt the carb, fresh plugs and wires, etc. Ultimately, I want to put a built 440 or stroker in this car but this engine should move it around pretty good for now.

So that's kinda where I'm at now. Just about ready to put the engine in. I have a new clutch and flywheel for it and just got a new radiator from Cold Case. I've got to replace some brake lines that are leaking and I also figure I should drop and drain/clean the fuel tank. If there's any other tips anyone would like to offer before I actually start it up and drop it on the ground to try and move it, please feel free to chime in!

 

[GOLDMYN]

looks like the seats are NYer

 

[JC68vert300]

Those are definitely the optional leather seats for ‘68. M3X on the fender tag. It also came with the passenger seat back recliner with a head rest. I know it was available on the New Yorker and 300, so they would fit. If available on the Newport I would suspect it to have been a rarely ordered option, especially in a low option car with no A/C or automatic transmission.

 

[gyknot]

Just confirm your crank is drilled deep enough for a pilot bushing assuming its out of an automatic car.
It ruins your day when you get the engine in the car and you find out then.

 

[WissaMan]

Just confirm your crank is drilled deep enough for a pilot bushing assuming its out of an automatic car.
It ruins your day when you get the engine in the car and you find out then.

Being a pretty big newb when it comes to 4-speeds, this was Greek to me so I had to look it up. I will definitely check it out. Fortunately, it looks like there is a bearing available if it is not. But thanks for cluing me in to this! I wasn't even thinking about this bushing, which I assume should be replaced.

I'm pretty sure the seats are not leather, but do look just like the leather ones in my New Yorker (except the NYer has a driver side headrest too)

Here's the fender tag.

I put it through a decoder and here's what it gave me.
CAR: Unknown Make and Model.
ENGINE: 383cid 2-bbl V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Manual Column Shift
TIRES: Unknown tire code
BUILD DATE: April 08.
AXLE: 3.23 Rear Axle Ratio
INTERIOR: Green Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Racing Green Metallic Paint.
OTHER:

MOLDINGS:
14: Sill Mouldings
30: Body Belt Mouldings
78: Wheel Lip Mouldings

ABC OPTIONS:
R2: Music Master AM Radio

abc OPTIONS:
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
w1: Unknown Option


I'm not seeing anything that refers to the interior, so I'm guessing that might not be original. Also, when I turn the one rear wheel, the other turns in the same direction (instead of opposite) so I assume that means Sure Grip? When I let the diff input turn, it seems to go around almost exactly 3 times per wheel rotation. If the diff was 3.23 I figure it'd be more like 3 1/4 rotations per wheel rotation. Is there a rear end ratio that's almost exactly 3:1 that could be in it?

 

[65sporty]

Check to see if there is a tag on one of the studs holding in the center section to the rear end. It would have the ratio if it's there.

 

[gyknot]

Some cranks are not drilled deep enough from the factory to let the transmission input shaft go in. Its not just a matter of putting a pilot bushing in if you have one of those. You either need to drill the crank deeper or cut off the end of the transmission input shaft (which I don't recommend but have seen done). You'll just have to measure the depth.

 

[WissaMan]

ahh, ok point taken. When I get it off the stand I'll measure that depth. I didn't take it off today because I wanted to take the harmonic balancer off and check the condition. What do you think, should I replace it?

 

[65sporty]

The rubber is starting to deteriorate, what's the front like?

 

[WissaMan]

Oh and I did look at the diff for the tag but there does not seem to be one

 

[WissaMan]

The rubber is starting to deteriorate, what's the front like?

I didn't take a pic, but it's rusty

 

[65sporty]

Does the rubber look the same or worse?

 

[WissaMan]

I didn't know you could see the rubber from the front -- maybe it was coated with rust and gunk. I'll check it out tomorrow

 

[Metalmarty]

Cool project!
I haven't seen a 68' Newport with the manual 3 on the tree before.
I'm currently working on a 68' Newport as well.
I'm posting my progress on this forum from time to time. Might be interesting for you? 1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL)

 

[WissaMan]

I went ahead and bought a new harmonic balancer from Mancini. It's only a couple bucks in the grand scheme of this thing so why take a chance. Once that comes in an I get it mounted, I'll be able to take the engine off the stand and check out the crankshaft. If it's not drilled deep enough, is that something I could do with a hand drill? Or is that work for a machine shop ?

 

[Polara_500]

work for a machine shop

 

[WissaMan]

work for a machine shop

 

[WissaMan]

DAMN

Ok, first big shot in the a-- with this project

I still have both 440's on engine stands, but I was able to stick my finger into the end of the crankshafts. The one from the Newport with the forged crank still had the pilot bushing it it and I could feel the hole was nice and deep. The one from the New Yorker with the cast crank, when I stuck my finger in the end of the crankshaft, I could immediately obvious the hole was very shallow.

ARGGH

If it was just a few mm I'd probaby be okay with grinding a little off the trans input shaft. But the hole on that cast crank seems so much more shallow like you'd have to take an inch off the trans shaft, which I certainly don't want to do. On top of that, I don't even think the hole is deep enough to hold a bushing or bearing at all.

So....

Can an engine or machine shop drill out that crankshaft while it's in the motor or would it have to come out??

 

[gyknot]

Sorry to have brought bad news that way but its worse when its already in the car and you can't get the trans to go in.
I can't imagine any machine shop could set it up to bore that hole out with the crank still in the engine. You could ask around but I really doubt it.
If I recall when my brother did that, he did cut about an inch off the input shaft to get it to go in. It did work but still not even close to the correct way to do things. I don't remember if he had to jerry rig the pilot bushing too or not.