68 Sport Fury Brakes

[Furydude]

Diving into my first mopar in 35 years and right off the bat. I have two problems.

1. The break lights do not come on unless you really mash the breaks. Not just hard. But lift foot off the pedal and drop down hard. I have the service manual and see the front headlights and exterior lighting. but not the rear brakes light. Or I cant find it. because the lights do come on. Just when you push the pedal all the way to the floor. And I am thinking you should just be able give it a little pressure and it should come on, then maybe its a switch somewhere on the pedal.

Can anyone point me in the right direction of how to start tackling this?

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2. How should the brakes feel? Took it around the block and I think there is a problem. Just in the driveway, they are super hard. backing out, had to press pretty hard. Hit my first stop sign and had to hit pretty hard. Then make a left turn at 25 mph and the breaks were softer but still hard. Came to another stop sign and hard. Overall pretty hard. Not sure I would start driving with out some work. But I do not know what to expect. I don't drive a 47 year old car with drums to often. But want to drive this one a bit. Any ideas on exceptions? Normal? Or should I dig into the brakes?

Thank You for any and all information. Tdube.

 

[Furydude]

Here is the MC setup

 

[Furydude]

I think am answering my own question on item #1. I found the switch at the top of the brake pedal. moved it around a little and i am now getting brake light without having to pound the pedal. I think the lights come on as the switch extends and the switch is on its way out. just the pedal is cranky. I may need a new switch.

But there seems to be different types. screw in or push in. Anyone know the type? Rockauto has them. just need to figure out which one it is. Then figure out how to get it out and a new one in.

If anyone has a suggestion onthe swithc type. i'd appreciate it. Thx. Tdube.

 

[68Nwprt]

When the button is out, the switch is made and you have power to the brakes. The bracket that the switch is mounted should be adjustable. Did you try to adjust by loosening the bracket, and re-positioning the switch? No need to replace the switch if you know it's working. Also hard brake pedal most likely due manual brakes, (no power assist.), may want to look into that upgrade in the future.

Some additional info for brakes and turn signal wiring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmRR0AeZspk

 

[68 4spd Fury]

Has the car been sitting for a long period? When I got my 68 Sport Fury, (manual drums also), it hadn't been driven much in about two years and only weekends since 1972. My biggest problem was after driving the car the brakes would hold, (push in the clutch on an incline and it wouldn't roll back). By the time I was done I'd replaced all four wheel cylinders, hardware and master cylinder. The brake fluid looked like mud and had gummed up the piston in the master. I completely flushed it out the old fluid in all lines with new. The only thing I didn't rebuild/replace was the proportioning valve and I'll get to this this winter. There is still a slight pulling in the front despite the new parts and adjustment. Hope this helps and good luck.

 

[Furydude]

I'll explain the brakes as just bad. I would not let anyone drive it. And if someone pulled in front, and most cars would stop, this wound not. My 71 roadrunner stopped on a dime. Had pretty much the same drive train 383, but 4 speed. That was a long time ago. I forgot if it had disc or drums. But drums are good if setup right. they just got some other issues here and there.

I am thinking i'll put the car on jack stands, flush out the brake lines, replace brake hoses (they can collapse), wheel cylinders, and put new springs and pads on them. plus I can clean up all four corners. Its starting to get colder here in MD. So not a lot of cruising left.

I mean people back in the day mostly stopped.

 

[Furydude]

When the button is out, the switch is made and you have power to the brakes. The bracket that the switch is mounted should be adjustable. Did you try to adjust by loosening the bracket, and re-positioning the switch? No need to replace the switch if you know it's working. Also hard brake pedal most likely due manual brakes, (no power assist.), may want to look into that upgrade in the future.

Some additional info for brakes and turn signal wiring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmRR0AeZspk

I did not try and adjust the bracket. i'll try that next So i can get the light to come on faster. Thx for the info.