72 Polara Door Seal Replacement

[GregHenderson34]

So I have looked everywhere for a door seal replacement kit for my 72' Dodge Polara with a hardtop. I cannot find anything, has anyone else had a similar issue where they have used seals from another car to work or has anyone used a generic seal kit and made their own? I'm just trying to get ideas so I can stop have little puddles on my floor after washing the car.

 

[marty mopar]

4 or 2 door?

 

[GregHenderson34]

4 or 2 door?

4 door

 

[CBODY67]

You can probably find "roll goods" weatherstrips in the back of the Steele Rubber catalog that might match close to what is on the car. From there, some miters at the top corners and grafting on the A-pillar and C-pillar ends to the new rubber, might be your only choices.

In some cases, the cracks can be filled-in with black silicone sealer. It'll work for a few years, from my experiences, but not "forever".

ONLY C-body hardtops, 1969 to 1973 model years, I suspect.

 

[polarus]

If you have part numbers you can check E bay, or parts voice, there are a few still out there but after 50 years even NOS will need some work.

 

[CBODY67]

If you have part numbers you can check E bay, or parts voice, there are a few still out there but after 50 years even NOS will need some work.

Yes, specially if they were originally packaged in a smaller box! Folds and bends are not too bad for a year or so, but THEN with extended time, they can "take a set" and be difficult to remove when the part is taken out of the box, by observation.

Back in the later 1970s, our '72 Newport Royal 4dr sedan had had an issue since new, where at a certain road speed and conditions, the lh frt door would shake. When it did that, the weatherstrip would let in more wind noise and such. I found out I could still get a new weatherstrip from Chrysler, so I ordered one locally.

When it arrived, I knew I had just wasted my money. Why? New part, should be better. The box it was packed in was about 9"x9"x3". The rubber item was "wadded up" nicely to fit. When I took it out of the box, the weatherstrip was twisted and tangled and did not easily "unwind". It might have taken a week in the warm TX sun, marinaded in rubber restorer to become CLOSE to being able to be used. On so many weatherstrips, they use a molded convex surface to seal to the body, but when those molded areas are collapsed and wrinkled in the packaging process, then stay that way for years, not useable.

NOTHING against any NOS weatherstrip vendors, but "buyer beware".

Just my experiences,
CBODY67

 

[3C's & a D?]

Sometimes adjusting the window will do the trick. You'll have to remove the door panel and have a look. You can move the bottom of the tracks to pull the top of the window in slightly. The stops can also be adjusted to raise the window slightly. And before you attempt that, make sure your door hinges and latches are properly aligned.

 

[GregHenderson34]

Sometimes adjusting the window will do the trick. You'll have to remove the door panel and have a look. You can move the bottom of the tracks to pull the top of the window in slightly. The stops can also be adjusted to raise the window slightly. And before you attempt that, make sure your door hinges and latches are properly aligned.

I would try that but my seals are cracked and have chunks missing from them. Would a generic set of rubber seals that I cut to size work?

 

[CBODY67]

(Generic?)

 

[GregHenderson34]

(Generic?)

Like a kit that I can get off of Amazon that would just come in a large roll that I would have to cut to fit?

 

[CBODY67]

Look in the Steele Rubber catalog for "roll goods" that match what you need. You can buy direct that way. A lot of what Amazon sells can tend to be knock-offs of lesser value than suspected, by observation.

 

[3C's & a D?]

You might be able to find something off the roll, that'll be a bit of work but might be worth the effort. Some well placed half inch wide 1/8 inch thick black adhesive backed closed cell foam tape might do the trick too.