77 Newport Dash lights (first Car)

[NewportLover77]

I’m new to this and could use some help. I had to remove the dashboard to access the odometer and work on it, but now the odometer works, although not very efficiently—which is fine for now. After reconnecting all the wiring, I noticed a lot more lights on the dashboard, which looks great! However, the gas, temperature, and other gauges are blinking and not working properly. Does anyone have an idea on if it could be a wiring issue? Of on my part of reconnecting it poorly?

Also side tangent, does anyone know where to find a really long cb style antenna? Like a dukes of hazard antenna?

 

[O_Knut]

I’m new to this and could use some help. I had to remove the dashboard to access the odometer and work on it, but now the odometer works, although not very efficiently—which is fine for now. After reconnecting all the wiring, I noticed a lot more lights on the dashboard, which looks great! However, the gas, temperature, and other gauges are blinking and not working properly. Does anyone have an idea on if it could be a wiring issue? Of on my part of reconnecting it poorly?

Also side tangent, does anyone know where to find a really long cb style antenna? Like a dukes of hazard antenna?

Sorry I’ll be of no help but I wanted to say welcome to the community! My 71 Newport royal coupe was my first car and I still have it! (Have had daily drivers since then) I bought it at 16 and am 20 now and this website has been immensely helpful! Goodluck!

 

[CBODY67]

Welcome!

The factory wiring should be pretty much plug 'n play. Dedicated connectors that match with other connects AND wiring colors. Should not be a major way to mix things up. As long as the colors match and they push together firmly and fully.

The 108" whip antenna needs to have a fitting "base" to be attached to. Which means cutting the rear quarter panel, usually. NOT just a replacement for the normal 31" stainless steel factory antenna.

The 108" whips were also used on many county law enforcement cars, in the 1960s and later. Had to have a clip on the drip rail to attach the top to when not "away from things the whip might contact/damage.

 

[NewportLover77]

Sorry I’ll be of no help but I wanted to say welcome to the community! My 71 Newport royal coupe was my first car and I still have it! (Have had daily drivers since then) I bought it at 16 and am 20 now and this website has been immensely helpful! Goodluck!

Thank you

 

[NewportLover77]

Welcome!

The factory wiring should be pretty much plug 'n play. Dedicated connectors that match with other connects AND wiring colors. Should not be a major way to mix things up. As long as the colors match and they push together firmly and fully.

The 108" whip antenna needs to have a fitting "base" to be attached to. Which means cutting the rear quarter panel, usually. NOT just a replacement for the normal 31" stainless steel factory antenna.

The 108" whips were also used on many county law enforcement cars, in the 1960s and later. Had to have a clip on the drip rail to attach the top to when not "away from things the whip might contact/damage.

Oh. I didn't know that, I thought it was just click in. Just buy it and screw the new one in.

So I did check, everything is firm and correct. But they still blinking red? They moved just a little bit after checking all the connections. Other than them not working. Was there a purpose for them blinking?

 

[CBODY67]

The red LED warning lights on the gauges are there to advise of "out of normal range" situations on each gauge. Triggered by switches on the individual gauge needles, I suspect. If the needles move far out of the normal or bad range, they also go out. I found that out one time on the temp gauge (yes, the engine lived!) on my '80 Newport. Those LEDs, plus the Hidden Symbols, were Chrysler innovations for the then-new 1974 C-bodies.

The red LEDs should not blink, but remain on "solid" when lit. Position of the gauge needles when this is happening? I'm suspecting "the blink" was not happening before you took things apart?

There should be a gauge voltage limiter on or near the main voltage feed to the gas gauge. Limits the feed voltage to abt 5 volts. That would be the only "voltage regulator" in the gauge power circuit.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67