81 imperial starter troubles

Jimmy Jippy

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Hello, I bought and have been doing some minor repairs on an 81 Chrysler I bought with 34k original miles and the original EFI system which has served me fantastically, however the starter went bad. So naturally I replaced the starter, replaced the battery, terminal posts, and even redid the wires to the terminal posts, but yet when I turn the key, it cranks but refuses to start. I apply the gas pedal and get nothing from it. I know the air intake system for the EFI is very specific and unfortunately due to the low mileage of the vehicle it was sitting in a garage for a long time so the exhaust rusted off, leaving possible room for O2 sensor faults, so I was wondering if anybody had any advice on what I could do to fix this issue and get the beauty on the road again?

Many thanks

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Make sure your air cleaner lid is tight,and check all hoses for leaks/brittle.
 
First off do you know if is a fuel problem or spark? If you don’t know just dump about 1/4 cup of gas (or spray some starter fluid) into the tbi and crank it to see if it try’s to start. If it does not try to start diagnose the ignition side first. If it does try to start then start looking at fuel system.

I hate to say it but there is a reason the factory paid to have dealers convert these systems from efi to carbureted. My mom had one on these in the late 80’s that didn’t get converted. Ran for the first summer with no problems then parked in for the winter. The next spring it would never run correctly. I can’t remember everything we tried but we did a lot of work. So we converted it to a 2 barrel carb and never had any problems with the engine.
 
Make sure your air cleaner lid is tight,and check all hoses for leaks/brittle.
As simple as this might seem, it is CRUCIAL on the Chrysler EFI system on those cars. The air cleaner top MUST be on squarely and flat, not cocked in any manner, before the band clamp is tightened!

Why?

The computer's Mass Air Flow sensor is in the snorkel of the air cleaner base (a.k.a. "Fuel Plate"). If there is any degree of air leakage downstream from the MAF, not all of the intake air is going through the sensor, so the sensor sends a "lower volume" air signal to the computer. Which causes all sorts of drivability issues. Especially an "engine dies" when the air cleaner top is removed.

So, "simple things" first.

On other EFI vehicles, if the fuel pressure is not completely "to spec", an extended crank time will result. In one case I observed, with a fuel pressure gauge installed, as the engine cranked, the pump slowly built pressure until it hit 56psi (on that particular vehicle) and then, suddenly, it fired off and ran 98% as normal. So, replace the fuel filter and also check the fuel pressure. Not like a carb engine which can run on low fuel pressure.

Why replace "terminals" on the cables/wires?

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
As simple as this might seem, it is CRUCIAL on the Chrysler EFI system on those cars. The air cleaner top MUST be on squarely and flat, not cocked in any manner, before the band clamp is tightened!

Why?

The computer's Mass Air Flow sensor is in the snorkel of the air cleaner base (a.k.a. "Fuel Plate"). If there is any degree of air leakage downstream from the MAF, not all of the intake air is going through the sensor, so the sensor sends a "lower volume" air signal to the computer. Which causes all sorts of drivability issues. Especially an "engine dies" when the air cleaner top is removed.

So, "simple things" first.

On other EFI vehicles, if the fuel pressure is not completely "to spec", an extended crank time will result. In one case I observed, with a fuel pressure gauge installed, as the engine cranked, the pump slowly built pressure until it hit 56psi (on that particular vehicle) and then, suddenly, it fired off and ran 98% as normal. So, replace the fuel filter and also check the fuel pressure. Not like a carb engine which can run on low fuel pressure.

Why replace "terminals" on the cables/wires?

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
First off do you know if is a fuel problem or spark? If you don’t know just dump about 1/4 cup of gas (or spray some starter fluid) into the tbi and crank it to see if it try’s to start. If it does not try to start diagnose the ignition side first. If it does try to start then start looking at fuel system.

I hate to say it but there is a reason the factory paid to have dealers convert these systems from efi to carbureted. My mom had one on these in the late 80’s that didn’t get converted. Ran for the first summer with no problems then parked in for the winter. The next spring it would never run correctly. I can’t remember everything we tried but we did a lot of work. So we converted it to a 2 barrel carb and never had any problems with the

First off do you know if is a fuel problem or spark? If you don’t know just dump about 1/4 cup of gas (or spray some starter fluid) into the tbi and crank it to see if it try’s to start. If it does not try to start diagnose the ignition side first. If it does try to start then start looking at fuel system.

I hate to say it but there is a reason the factory paid to have dealers convert these systems from efi to carbureted. My mom had one on these in the late 80’s that didn’t get converted. Ran for the first summer with no problems then parked in for the winter. The next spring it would never run correctly. I can’t remember everything we tried but we did a lot of work. So we converted it to a 2 barrel carb and never had any problems with the engine.
I don’t think it’s a starter problem because I just replaced that, new battery as well, I haven’t looked into the fuel system admittedly, all I’ve done is replace spark plugs and spark plug wires, it does smell of gas whenever I attempt to crank it though
 
As simple as this might seem, it is CRUCIAL on the Chrysler EFI system on those cars. The air cleaner top MUST be on squarely and flat, not cocked in any manner, before the band clamp is tightened!

Why?

The computer's Mass Air Flow sensor is in the snorkel of the air cleaner base (a.k.a. "Fuel Plate"). If there is any degree of air leakage downstream from the MAF, not all of the intake air is going through the sensor, so the sensor sends a "lower volume" air signal to the computer. Which causes all sorts of drivability issues. Especially an "engine dies" when the air cleaner top is removed.

So, "simple things" first.

On other EFI vehicles, if the fuel pressure is not completely "to spec", an extended crank time will result. In one case I observed, with a fuel pressure gauge installed, as the engine cranked, the pump slowly built pressure until it hit 56psi (on that particular vehicle) and then, suddenly, it fired off and ran 98% as normal. So, replace the fuel filter and also check the fuel pressure. Not like a carb engine which can run on low fuel pressure.

Why replace "terminals" on the cables/wires?

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
I had replaced the fuel filter but I do not have a fuel pressure sensor installed, didn’t know the air snorkel was that specific so maybe I’ll monkey around with that and see if it can get running that way. Only reason I replaced the terminals and redid the ends of the terminal wires was because upon originally attempting to remove ground, the wires were so corroded that they snapped so I thought it may have been a problem with the voltage not being properly sent through to the starter
 
I had replaced the fuel filter but I do not have a fuel pressure sensor installed, didn’t know the air snorkel was that specific so maybe I’ll monkey around with that and see if it can get running that way. Only reason I replaced the terminals and redid the ends of the terminal wires was because upon originally attempting to remove ground, the wires were so corroded that they snapped so I thought it may have been a problem with the voltage not being properly sent through to the starter
Do these car's have more then 1 fuel filter ?
 
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