Alternative Port for Aftermarket Temp. Gauge, 318?

[Rosco]

I have a '68 Fury II with a 2bbl 318. I have an aftermarket electric temperature gauge that I'd like to install and also keep the use of my existing gauge.

My water pump doesn't seem to have an extra port like I've seen posted for some guys' 383's and I don't see an obvious place on the intake.

Could we be talking a Cuba style jury rig? Add a metal nipple to one of the radiator hoses with a JB Welded threaded hole to accept the new gauge?

Any suggestions re. alternative mounting places? Would it work to add fittings like a tee to the existing port and somehow run both sensors from there? Or is that going to be too far from the source to provide any kind of accuracy?

 

[CBODY67]

Just curious what your concerns with the factory gauge might be? If it might be "accuracy" and what lines on the scale might equate to a particular temperature, then using a non-contact heat gun might be a better option? In general, the first line on the gauge should be 100 degrees F, the middle line would be about 190-200 degrees F, and the last line might be about 260 degrees F or so (basically, the "boiling point" for a system pressurized to 15psi or so, by the radiator cap pressure function).

With the heat gun, you can aim it at the thermostat housing. Or the water passage just below it (engine side). Ultimately, you can aim it at the inlet and outlet hose connections on the radiator. While at the radiator, you can check the center sections for any low-temp areas in the main core, which will incidate poor circulation in those areas.

If you have a thermostatic-controlled fan clutch, the spring on the clutch will "see" temperature to modulate the fan clutch. IF the spring sees cooler temps, due to poor circulation, it will not respond and lock-up the clutch as it should, by observation. Even if the engine temp rises to a point where it should.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[Rosco]

Just curious what your concerns with the factory gauge might be? If it might be "accuracy" and what lines on the scale might equate to a particular temperature, then using a non-contact heat gun might be a better option? In general, the first line on the gauge should be 100 degrees F, the middle line would be about 190-200 degrees F, and the last line might be about 260 degrees F or so (basically, the "boiling point" for a system pressurized to 15psi or so, by the radiator cap pressure function).

With the heat gun, you can aim it at the thermostat housing. Or the water passage just below it (engine side). Ultimately, you can aim it at the inlet and outlet hose connections on the radiator. While at the radiator, you can check the center sections for any low-temp areas in the main core, which will incidate poor circulation in those areas.

If you have a thermostatic-controlled fan clutch, the spring on the clutch will "see" temperature to modulate the fan clutch. IF the spring sees cooler temps, due to poor circulation, it will not respond and lock-up the clutch as it should, by observation. Even if the engine temp rises to a point where it should.

Take care,
CBODY67

Well, I'm interested in seeing the temp., like you mentioned, in degrees. I've got the gauge and would like to know while on the fly.

The heat gun is a great idea but for me it's more a matter of peace of mind while driving under very warm and slow speed conditions.

I've got a thing about keeping the existing gauges functional- I just like em. it's part of my Fury experience. The new gauge will show me temperature in what I'm hoping is very accurate degrees. If I need to make any changes- add a shroud, different t-stat, two fans, etc. then I think I'd benefit from seeing the actual temperature I'm rolling with.

The gauge is a nice full-sweep 'Autometer' with a light. I've got high hopes. Just don't know where the heck to put this thing w/out using the existing port and losing my original 1968 dash gauge.

On the 318 the existing temp sensor is right next to the heater hose at the front of the engine in the intake manifold. Since I want to go this route should I be considering drilling and tapping a new hole? New/different kind of manifold? There doesn't seem to be an obvious vacant port.

 

[Rosco]

Anyone ever heard of these:
Thermostat spacer with EFI sensor port | AR Engineering

This would be perfect if it would fit my 318...

 

[Rosco]

Update:
OK, You can all put down your manuals and close the hoods on your 318's and stop looking.
going with this:
Vintage Air 706001-VCQ Vintage Air Water Neck Risers | Summit Racing
There seems to be others out there I just happen to have a Summit about 45 minutes from me. Boom. Done.
Since I'm usually looking for help here maybe this post will lead someone in the MOPAR world to a solution if they were thrashing like me.
Giving back!!
Seemed to be a lot of threads in various forums with the same question.

 

[CBODY67]

Update:
OK, You can all put down your manuals and close the hoods on your 318's and stop looking.
going with this:
Vintage Air 706001-VCQ Vintage Air Water Neck Risers | Summit Racing
There seems to be others out there I just happen to have a Summit about 45 minutes from me. Boom. Done.
Since I'm usually looking for help here maybe this post will lead someone in the MOPAR world to a solution if they were thrashing like me.
Giving back!!
Seemed to be a lot of threads in various forums with the same question.

Notice that some of the others (down in the "similar products" box have TWO or FOUR holes for sensors and are less expensive than the Vintage Air item with only ONE hole? Such a deal . . . more holes, less money!

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[Rosco]

Notice that some of the others (down in the "similar products" box have TWO or FOUR holes for sensors and are less expensive than the Vintage Air item with only ONE hole? Such a deal . . . more holes, less money!

Take care,
CBODY67

They already cut the deal with Autometer. It's like the give away the printer and get 50 years of ink purchases.

 

[Slap Stick]

I don't think you understood what cbody67 said.
Check the temp with the IR gun and compare the reading on the dash.
Then you know what temp the position on the dash is.
Quite simple.

 

[Rosco]

I don't think you understood what cbody67 said.
Check the temp with the IR gun and compare the reading on the dash.
Then you know what temp the position on the dash is.
Quite simple.

You're right! I didn't get that. Thanks for the clarification.
I guess I'll end up doing that the expensive way (I already have the gauge- and now, the t-stat housing riser...)
Although if you're not overheating when you do the test you wouldn't necessarily know where you were if you were above your normal, happy temp. Like do I need to shut her down NOW or can I make it to the next exit.
I had this leaky freeze plug years ago- a hard to get to one near the transmission bell housing. I rolled with water in the radiator for years (this was when I was a kid) and made a career out of pushing the limits with the gauge on the H side, trying to find a suitable place to pull over- preferably with some running or standing water nearby to poach and put in the rad.
I've got a bunch of new parts and it'll be fun to see how the car works with them in. And to know exactly how hot she runs under different conditions.

 

[CBODY67]

"Happy temp" should be from about 175 degrees to 210 degrees F. Which is right in the ballpark for either a 180 or 195 degree F thermostat. With the middle mark on the gauge being about 200 degrees F. Meaning the needle should be just under the middle mark, which looks better than it being on the higher side of the middle mark, by observation.

Remember, too, that ANY gauge or measuring device can have an accuracy tolerance of about 10% of the full gauge reading. Sometimes more toward 5% + or -, but still some tolerance. So you use the gauge readings as a constant reference rather than an "absolute". Which is why a 6K tach is a more accurate item than a 10K tach (other than the obvious eye appeal of the real possibility that the engine really will need those higher numbers).

Enjoy!
CBODY67