WANTED Bolt to connect steering column to power steering
- Thread starter Zymurgy
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That's a Socket Head Cap Screw available at any decent HARDWARE store (Not a "Home Center" like Home Depot or Lowes) that has an aisle full of those pullout drawers. ACE, TruValue, etc.
And the length is measured from UNDER the head.
And the length is measured from UNDER the head.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Grade 5?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Socket head cap screws are not grade designated as are hex head cap screws. A standard inch series socket head cap screw is 20% stronger than a Grade 8 hex head cap screw and 50% stronger than a Grade 5 hex cap screw.
Mopars & Missiles
Well-Known Member
Common hardware as Stan mentioned, and measured as he stated also. The only thing unique about it is that it is drilled for the pin. You might not be able to find it like that at a hardware store and will have to drill the end of the bolt yourself.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Highly unlikely that will be successful. Ever try to drill one of those things?
Use Loctite.
Mopars & Missiles
Well-Known Member
Yes, agree. It isn't easy without some proper fixtures and drill guides. Especially on a small diameter bolt like that.
Loctite would be the logical way to go, but thought maybe he was bent on keeping it original looking.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I strongly suggest that Loctite will NOT cut it in this application, as there are too many repeated stresses on the nuts and bolts when steering that will ultimately make the nuts back off. That's why they were used with lock washers and pinned originally. Do NOT rely on thread lock in this situation.
I looked around to see if the originals were available - NOT. Not even a part number, as they were included in a coupler package.
That being said, similar bolts as described above will be available at good suppliers, but without the hole, which in my opinion (which may mean little! LOL) you MUST drill and use pins and lock washers.
Yes, drilling accurately through the threads of even a slightly hardened bolt will be challenging, but not impossible. Here's my suggestion:
Go to a good machine shop with the original bolt as a guide, and the new bolts. Get a throwaway nut of the softest steel (non hardened) that fits and spin it on (perhaps double nut it to keep it in place), chuck it in a holding vise and drill through the nut and the bolt using a drill press. Little to no flash, the hole will be properly centered, away you go. 5 minutes at best...
I looked around to see if the originals were available - NOT. Not even a part number, as they were included in a coupler package.
That being said, similar bolts as described above will be available at good suppliers, but without the hole, which in my opinion (which may mean little! LOL) you MUST drill and use pins and lock washers.
Yes, drilling accurately through the threads of even a slightly hardened bolt will be challenging, but not impossible. Here's my suggestion:
Go to a good machine shop with the original bolt as a guide, and the new bolts. Get a throwaway nut of the softest steel (non hardened) that fits and spin it on (perhaps double nut it to keep it in place), chuck it in a holding vise and drill through the nut and the bolt using a drill press. Little to no flash, the hole will be properly centered, away you go. 5 minutes at best...
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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That sounds like a good suggestion for drilling the hole.
Just went out scrounging and checking, the one spare donut I have none of the four screws are drilled, they're only equipped with lock washers. Don't remember the car it came from but almost guaranteed to be a 65 Polara. The two cars currently in the shop both have all 4 screws drilled for cotter pins. So once again, may be a best practice, may be a lesson learned, don't know but apparently not all were originally drilled.
Thanks Ross for the tip of drilling through the nut and bolt. I tried drilling straight through the bolt yesterday, that was a completely useless attempt, for that small of a hole.
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Hey what's wrong with that sheild.See that heat shield?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I am not familiar with the hardware in the coupler but I have to disagree with having to use a pin. The torque is holding it tight, pins are for safety against completely coming off
Red loctite
Red loctite
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I betcha Murray has a bunch of those cap screws laying around. . .
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Brads
Deception Pass (Len Dawson)
Arizona Parts
All have them
Alan
Deception Pass (Len Dawson)
Arizona Parts
All have them
Alan
66Newyorker
Active Member
Could use a Top Lock nut. Fasten also has them.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Guess I should have added the part number.
6026435
Alan
6026435
Alan
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